Quantcast
Latest Stories

Kitchen Rescue

Strictly Italian: Traditional wine paired with 4 pastas

By

NINO Quartana and Pio Boffa

I consider myself fortunate to have welcomed to my home Pio Boffa—a fourth-generation winemaker of Italian descent whose family’s wine heritage dates back to the 1800s.

The winery, Pio Cesare, was borne out of his maternal great grandfather Cesare Pio’s passion for traditions, the food and wine of the Piemonte region.

From hobby to business

An entrepreneur in different fields, Boffa initially produced quality wines for his friends and clients. The operation evolved from a hobby to a business, and became his life’s mission and vision.

The family has been producing some of the finest Barolos, Barbarescos (the king and queen of Italian wines, respectively), alongside Barbera and other traditional wines of the Piemonte region in their ancient cellars with walls that date back to the Roman Empire, in the town of Alba.

But Boffa said they have recently invested in modernizing the winery and its facilities.

“For over a century,” Boffa recounted, “Pio Cesare has produced artisanal wines made with passion. Our winemaking style is the land, the terroir and the firm desire of continuing to reproduce, year after year, the same wine which has been the style of the house for the past 132 years. And this remains to be our commitment to the wine lovers and friends of Pio Cesare.

“We want people to recognize us, to feel comfortable. We like them to remember the style of our wine and the last time they enjoyed a bottle of it. Even the labels have remained unchanged.

“The biggest challenge is to reproduce it, year after year. To do so requires a lot of dedication and commitment. There are so many factors involved. We produce our wines in limited quantities to maintain quality and labor endlessly to keep the highest standards.”

Wine and food

Boffa explained the relationship of wine and food. “I believe it is all about freedom. There is a science, as everybody knows—the stronger the wines are, the stronger the food should be, so one does not overpower the other,” he said. “We eat because we want to have the pleasure of tasting different recipes and we want to add pleasure by enjoying different wines, the company of those around the table, so on and so forth… Which is why I say pleasure, to me, is very personal. What gives me pleasure to pair today, may not give me the same pleasure to pair tomorrow. This is what I mean by freedom, it is always changing.”

When Boffa came to lunch, I decided to keep it strictly Italian and asked Nino Quartana (an artist whose works you will find at the Fiumara d Arte in Sicily and a very good cook who describes his food as having “originated from tradition, authentic Sicilian and Italian, mixed with a bit of my creativity”) to prepare four different pastas for us to pair with Pio Cesare wines.

Regarding pasta, Boffa said: “To create any sauce over it is an expression of one’s freedom; paired with bread and a glass of wine (that is, of your choice)… a masterpiece!”

Pasta Aglio et Olio

Quartana prepared Pasta Aglio et Olio, while Boffa paired it with Pio Cesare Chardonnay Piodilei 2010, Langhe DOC—which the winemaker described as having “a very clean nose, with

PIO Cesare wines paired with pastas by Quartana

white pepper spice, racy acids, medium bodied, citrusy and flinty on a long finish.”

I took note of how Quartana prepared Penne Norma: He sautéed 2 cloves garlic in 4 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil; removed the garlic and added 500 ml tomato sauce, ½ glass water, a little basil, salt.

He simmered the mixture for 40 minutes; sliced 4 eggplants ¼-inch thick and fried them till golden in olive oil. He pureed half the fried eggplant with a clove of garlic and half the sauce. He cooked 320 g penne, al dente, tossed it with the sauce, added 1-2 tbsp of cream and garnished the pasta with fried aubergines, parmesan cheese and fresh basil.

 

Only 5,000 bottles

Boffa paired the Penne Norma with Pio Cesare Il Bricco Barbaresco 2008 DOCG. “This is a single vineyard wine from Il Bricco vineyard, with only 5,000 bottles produced for their 2008 vintage; exuberant nose, cinnamon bark, vanilla, prune, acid backbone still prominent in the palate, full bodied, and a long, racy finish.”

Quartana’s preparation of Fettuccine with Cream, Nuts and Taleggio consisted of putting 10 g butter in a pan with a clove of garlic and 8 fresh sage leaves over very low flame for 4 minutes.

He added ½ cup milk, 200 ml cream, 150 g Taleggio cheese, a handful of nuts and a sprig of fresh thyme.

He cooked 320 g pasta and added it to the pan with the sauce and seasoned it to taste.

Boffa paired it with Pio Cesare Barolo 2008 DOCG—“very complex nose, saddle, leather, herbaceous, black currant, full bodied, with tannins still noticeable on the palate, and a long, lingering blackberry finish.”

Linguine with Pesto

Quartana’s Linguine with Pesto was made by blending 40 g washed and dried basil leaves with 50 ml of extra virgin olive oil, 2 pinches of salt, 2 cloves of garlic, 8 g pistachios, 8 g cashew nuts.

One small potato diced, and 10 tender green beans cut into ¼-inch lengths, were cooked in 3 quarts of boiling salted water. On the same pot as beans and potatoes, 320 g pasta was cooked and drained. Six tablespoons of water was added to the pesto.

He tossed the linguine with pesto, added parmigiano and black pepper to taste.

Boffa paired it with Pio Cesare Barbera d’ Alba 2010 DOC—“powerful fruit forward qualities, luscious nose of persimmon, cherries, warm crusty pie, peppercorn, with very soft tannins and very ripe fruit finish.”

I have Herbie Tan and Sherwin Lao to thank for a wonderful time with Pio Boffa.

Pio Cesare Wines are distributed by Golden Wines. Call Jenny at 6385025/27.

Nino Quartana’s works are on display at Casa Roces, 1153 JP Laurel cor. Aguado Streets, San Miguel, Manila. He also teaches Italian cooking to small groups. E-mail ninoquartana@hotmail.com

PHOTOS BY AUGUST DELA CRUZ


Follow Us


Follow us on Facebook Follow on Twitter Follow on Twitter


Recent Stories:

Complete stories on our Digital Edition newsstand for tablets, netbooks and mobile phones; 14-issue free trial. About to step out? Get breaking alerts on your mobile.phone. Text ON INQ BREAKING to 4467, for Globe, Smart and Sun subscribers in the Philippines.

Tags: Cooking , Food , Italian cooking , Lifestyle , News , Wine



Copyright © 2014, .
To subscribe to the Philippine Daily Inquirer newspaper in the Philippines, call +63 2 896-6000 for Metro Manila and Metro Cebu or email your subscription request here.
Factual errors? Contact the Philippine Daily Inquirer's day desk. Believe this article violates journalistic ethics? Contact the Inquirer's Reader's Advocate. Or write The Readers' Advocate:
c/o Philippine Daily Inquirer Chino Roces Avenue corner Yague and Mascardo Streets, Makati City, Metro Manila, Philippines Or fax nos. +63 2 8974793 to 94
Advertisement
  1. How to enjoy Buntod
  2. Life lessons I want to teach my son
  3. Kim Atienza: At home with art and design
  4. ‘Wild West’ Masbate’s pristine marine gems
  5. How Zsa Zsa Padilla found Conrad Onglao; Sharon Cuneta played Cupid
  6. Sweet party for Andi Manzano
  7. Haneda International Airport: A destination on its own
  8. Historic Fort Bonifacio tunnel converted into a septic tank
  9. Entering the monkhood a rite of passage
  10. How Margie Moran-Floirendo keeps her dancer’s body
  1. How Zsa Zsa Padilla found Conrad Onglao; Sharon Cuneta played Cupid
  2. Are your favorite malls open this Holy Week break?
  3. Historic Fort Bonifacio tunnel converted into a septic tank
  4. ‘Labahita a la bacalao’
  5. Miss America: Don’t suspend teen over prom invite
  6. How Margie Moran-Floirendo keeps her dancer’s body
  7. This is not just a farm
  8. President Quezon was born here–and so was Philippine surfing
  9. Levine designs womenswear with help from fiancee
  10. Clams and garlic, softshell crab risotto–not your usual seafood fare for Holy Week
  1. How Zsa Zsa Padilla found Conrad Onglao; Sharon Cuneta played Cupid
  2. Mary Jean Lastimosa is new Miss Universe Philippines
  3. Did Angara ruin Pia Wurtzbach’s chances at Bb. Pilipinas?
  4. Dominique–Gretchen and Tonyboy Cojuangco’s daughter–now an endorser
  5. Vinegar test helpful vs cervical cancer
  6. From Jeannie to mom of suicide victim
  7. San Vicente beaches hidden but not for long
  8. Borgy and Georgina are back; others are off–again
  9. Why is the lifestyle set now afraid to wear jewelry–before Kim Henares?
  10. Sen. Angara: I thought Pia Wurtzbach gave a good answer

News

  • Camilla’s brother dies in US after head injury
  • Luisita farmers storm DAR compound
  • Trillanes, Ejercito confident they are not in Napoles’ list
  • Easterlies to prevail in Luzon, Visayas
  • Lacson eyes P106-B ‘Yolanda’ rehab masterplan
  • Sports

  • Phelps having fun in his return to swimming
  • Murray breaks down in tears at Scottish ceremony
  • Mixers trim Aces; Painters repulse Bolts
  • Donaire junks Garcia as coach, taps father
  • ’Bye Ginebra: No heavy heart this time
  • Lifestyle

  • Photos explore dynamics of youths’ sexual identity
  • 12th Philippine Food Expo set at the World Trade Center
  • No tourist draw, Malang the croc will remain wild
  • The best flavors of summer in one bite, and more
  • Homemade yogurt, bread blended with pizza, even ramen
  • Entertainment

  • Sony developing live-action Barbie comedy
  • California court won’t review Jackson doctor case
  • Return of ‘Ibong Adarna’
  • Practical Phytos plans his future
  • In love … with acting
  • Business

  • Facebook profits triple as mobile soars
  • Insular Honors Sales Performers at Testimonial Rites
  • Apple increases stock buyback, will split stock
  • Cost-recovery provisions for affected gencos urged
  • This time, BIR goes after florists
  • Technology

  • Top Traits of Digital Marketers
  • No truth to viral no-visa ‘chronicles’
  • ‘Unlimited’ Internet promos not really limitless; lawmakers call for probe
  • Viber releases new design for iPhone, comes to Blackberry 10 for the first time
  • Engineers create a world of difference
  • Opinion

  • Editorial cartoon, April 24, 2014
  • Talking to Janet
  • Respite
  • Bucket list
  • JPII in 1981: walking a tightrope
  • Global Nation

  • Filipinos in Middle East urged to get clearance before returning
  • PH seeks ‘clearer assurance’ from US
  • China and rivals sign naval pact to ease maritime tensions
  • What Went Before: Manila bus hostage crisis
  • Obama arrives in Tokyo, first stop of 4-nation tour
    Marketplace