Quantcast
Latest Stories

Country Cooking

‘Bombay,’ ‘pirihil,’ ‘sinantomas,’ ‘pasag-oy’–Quezon’s cuisine is a wonder

By

Lucban hardinera

With unbelievable speed, “The Cuisine of Quezon” (Zoom Printing Company, 2013) was published.

The author, Milada Dealo Valde, was just talking about a cookbook she wanted to do in May; by the first week of August, it was launched.

It just showed that when this woman puts her mind to doing something, she gets it done, pronto.

Because Valde is from Lucban, most of the recipes come from this cool upland town famous for its Pahiyas festival. If you’re familiar with its food, you would look for its longganisa, pancit habhab and hardinera, and they are there. Hardinera, the celebratory meat loaf of the place, was my introduction to Lucbanin cooking. And Valde’s recipe may give away the secret as to why the hardinera in Valde’s family bakery and restaurant, Dealo Koffee Klatch, is the best I have ever tasted.

At the book launch, a huge hardinera was on display. Many of us wanted to have a taste of it but we were told the hotel would not allow it. Apparently the hotel didn’t allow any dish, not prepared in its kitchen, to be served; it didn’t want to be held accountable for any food problem.

 

Strange names

Bombay, soup of pork lungs in a banana leaf packet

I did look for Bombay, the soup similar to the Tagalog batchoy where the main ingredients are cooked in a banana leaf pouch that resembles an Indian turban (hence the dish’s name). It reminded me of Iloilo’s tinuom nga manok, chicken steamed also in a banana packet.

For me, there were stranger names than Bombay. Pirihil turned out to be a dinuguan (blood stew) of chicken gizzard, heart and liver. Sinantomas is pork ribs or neck enriched with cheese, catsup, pineapple juice, vinegar and soy sauce. Karakas is crab cooked in buko (young coconut) meat and juice. Pasag-oy is pounded cooked cassava served with grated coconut in caramelized sugar.

This book was started a long time ago, according to Valde. The spadework was done with her friends who helped in the research and traveled to different parts of the province. One of those towns was Jomalig, an island in the eastern part which I didn’t even know about.

Halabos na hipon (steamed shrimps) was the recipe—quite simple, but this one used a clear lime-flavored soft drink. Cooking with soft drink happens all over the country, adding that special flavor to barbecue or an orange taste to some version of Cebu’s torta.

‘Ginanga’

Infanta’s sinantolan was there, reminding me of the time  I interviewed some nuns of Sta. Clara about the food of the place, under huge santol trees. Grated santol is cooked with coconut milk and cream, sometimes as is or, in good times, with added ingredients such as shrimp and crab and one listed as ginanga.

There was no explanation of what it is, but browsing through the pages, we found a recipe for ginanga from Infanta. It is the province’s name for pangat, or cooking fish with a little water and very mild flavors.

One of the women from Lucban said the process is the same as sinaing, except that sinaing is used only for tulingan (tuna) and ginanga for other fish.

author Milada Dealo Valde

Bakuli, a small mudfish (dalag), in Quezon, is cooked as paksiw (braised in vinegar) with turmeric. Our language is so rich that we even have names for different sizes of fish. In Bulacan, the eel is igat when still small, becomes malabanos as it becomes bigger, then is called palos at its biggest size.

There should have been some translation for readers not familiar with the terms. Author Amy Besa, seated beside me, asked what balinghoy is (cassava). And she pointed out how other recipes listed cassava and kamoteng kahoy.

Another mystery was kamamba leaves added to the guinataang manok (chicken cooked in coconut milk. Kamamba (Piper umbellatum) is said to grow wild and its leaves give off a scent that has been compared to that of the oregano or rosemary.

Sometimes when you are too close to the subject matter, you presume that all readers know what you know.

Glossary

The glossary defines or describes local names. But in “The Cuisine of Quezon” the section was used for “food-related jargons” in the province, a rather entertaining reading.

The kitchen is called labas while the stove is abuhan. These probably hark back to the days when the kitchen was situated outside the main house and the stove was wood-fed, producing abo (ash).

Badly cooked rice is called alibukdan if still half-cooked, and angi if burnt. Spicy food is halang.

Cooking procedures include bangi (roasting), ibatad (marinate), niligis (mashed), yadyad (shred).

My favorite is birtud or secrets in traditional cooking.

“The Cuisine of Quezon” is birtud revealed in the recipes. Valde will finally have a cookbook to bring to her cooking demonstrations abroad, and the book will become part of our culinary heritage.

I wish that all provinces, even towns, could document their own recipes. It doesn’t have to be a full-color book. A Cavite cookbook I was given had photocopied pages with an ordinary folder for cover.

Either way, they show the world that we have a rich and varied cuisine.

 

E-mail pinoyfood04@yahoo.com.


Follow Us


Follow us on Facebook Follow on Twitter Follow on Twitter


Recent Stories:

Complete stories on our Digital Edition newsstand for tablets, netbooks and mobile phones; 14-issue free trial. About to step out? Get breaking alerts on your mobile.phone. Text ON INQ BREAKING to 4467, for Globe, Smart and Sun subscribers in the Philippines.

Tags: cookbooks , Food , Lifestyle , Milada Dealo Valde , The Cuisine of Quezon



Copyright © 2014, .
To subscribe to the Philippine Daily Inquirer newspaper in the Philippines, call +63 2 896-6000 for Metro Manila and Metro Cebu or email your subscription request here.
Factual errors? Contact the Philippine Daily Inquirer's day desk. Believe this article violates journalistic ethics? Contact the Inquirer's Reader's Advocate. Or write The Readers' Advocate:
c/o Philippine Daily Inquirer Chino Roces Avenue corner Yague and Mascardo Streets, Makati City, Metro Manila, Philippines Or fax nos. +63 2 8974793 to 94
Advertisement
  1. How to enjoy Buntod
  2. Kim Atienza: At home with art and design
  3. Life lessons I want to teach my son
  4. No tourist draw, Malang the croc will remain wild
  5. ‘Wild West’ Masbate’s pristine marine gems
  6. The best flavors of summer in one bite, and more
  7. How Zsa Zsa Padilla found Conrad Onglao; Sharon Cuneta played Cupid
  8. Homemade yogurt, bread blended with pizza, even ramen
  9. What has happened to Barrio Fiesta and Singing Cooks & Waiters?
  10. Haneda International Airport: A destination on its own
  1. How Zsa Zsa Padilla found Conrad Onglao; Sharon Cuneta played Cupid
  2. Are your favorite malls open this Holy Week break?
  3. Historic Fort Bonifacio tunnel converted into a septic tank
  4. ‘Labahita a la bacalao’
  5. Miss America: Don’t suspend teen over prom invite
  6. How Margie Moran-Floirendo keeps her dancer’s body
  7. This is not just a farm
  8. President Quezon was born here–and so was Philippine surfing
  9. Levine designs womenswear with help from fiancee
  10. Clams and garlic, softshell crab risotto–not your usual seafood fare for Holy Week
  1. How Zsa Zsa Padilla found Conrad Onglao; Sharon Cuneta played Cupid
  2. Mary Jean Lastimosa is new Miss Universe Philippines
  3. Did Angara ruin Pia Wurtzbach’s chances at Bb. Pilipinas?
  4. Dominique–Gretchen and Tonyboy Cojuangco’s daughter–now an endorser
  5. Vinegar test helpful vs cervical cancer
  6. From Jeannie to mom of suicide victim
  7. San Vicente beaches hidden but not for long
  8. Borgy and Georgina are back; others are off–again
  9. Why is the lifestyle set now afraid to wear jewelry–before Kim Henares?
  10. Sen. Angara: I thought Pia Wurtzbach gave a good answer

News

  • Afghan hospital guard kills 3 American doctors
  • [VIDEO] No assurances on Janet Lim-Napoles’ bid to become state witness
  • South Sudan president fires long-time army leader
  • 25 cops ordered relieved over links to drugs
  • Bloodied shirt, unwashed fork: JPII relics abound
  • Sports

  • Pacquiao can dodge tax issues
  • F1 boss Bernie Ecclestone rejects bribery charges
  • Big Chill freezes Cafe France to arrest skid
  • Pacquiao has to go through PBA Rookie draft
  • Guiao summoned by PBA for name-calling incident
  • Lifestyle

  • Gongs and southern dances star in a workshop at San Francisco Bayanihan Center
  • This woman ate what?
  • Photos explore dynamics of youths’ sexual identity
  • 12th Philippine Food Expo set at the World Trade Center
  • No tourist draw, Malang the croc will remain wild
  • Entertainment

  • Smithsonian wants photos, videos for ‘Day in the Life of Asian Pacific Americans’
  • What Garcia Marquez left behind
  • Has Ai Ai fallen deeply with ‘sireno?’
  • Sony developing live-action Barbie comedy
  • California court won’t review Jackson doctor case
  • Business

  • Metro Pacific acquires stake in Victorias
  • How ‘one percent’ economic elite was uncovered
  • Facebook profits triple as mobile soars
  • Insular Honors Sales Performers at Testimonial Rites
  • Apple increases stock buyback, will split stock
  • Technology

  • Enrile in Masters of the Universe, Lord of the Rings?
  • Top Traits of Digital Marketers
  • No truth to viral no-visa ‘chronicles’
  • ‘Unlimited’ Internet promos not really limitless; lawmakers call for probe
  • Viber releases new design for iPhone, comes to Blackberry 10 for the first time
  • Opinion

  • Editorial cartoon, April 24, 2014
  • Talking to Janet
  • Respite
  • Bucket list
  • JPII in 1981: walking a tightrope
  • Global Nation

  • Obama to visit Filipino soldiers in Fort Bonifacio
  • Fil-Am youth conferences unite under one theme
  • Embassy advisory: Filipinos still need visas to enter US
  • No travel restriction to Mideast, DFA clarifies
  • PH-HK relations repaired, but families of victims still being courted
    Marketplace