Black eyeshadow is the most “dangerous” color to use, but if you know how to apply it, it’s also the most flattering color of eye makeup.

 

Instead of relying solely on blushers to contour the face, use various tones of cake foundation for a more seamless and natural look. Speaking of foundation, never go for extreme shades as base. Instead, choose shades that are closest to your natural skintone.

 

And unless you want your face to float and look disembodied on stage and in pictures, don’t forget to wear foundation on your neck and shoulders as well.

 

When it comes to lipstick, young women should favor shades of pink over reds and browns, which tend to make them look older.

 

In-your-face nose lining has gone the way of 1970s songstress Imelda Papin. Again, the trick is to achieve a more subtle and natural look by using various shades of foundation—either to contour or highlight specific areas of the nose.

 

These are just some of the “trade secrets” that veteran hair and makeup artist Ricky Reyes shared with this year’s contestants of Miss Earth Philippines. Coronation night will be held today at SM MOA Arena.

 

In a recent day-long beauty clinic Reyes conducted at the penthouse of his GRR Building in San Juan, he did a series of step-by-step demonstrations on how to achieve morning, afternoon and contest looks on three of the 49 young women vying for the crown.

 

“As a beauty pageant contestant, you can’t rely on makeup artists all the time,” Reyes said. “There will be times in your packed schedule when you will have to do your own makeup. Since you want to make an impression, looking ordinary won’t do.”

 

Color wheel

 

Apart from knowing what works for their respective facial structures, the women were encouraged to “know your color wheel and how it complements your individual skintones.

 

“For daytime makeup, fair-skinned women have a wider selection of eyeshadow colors to choose from,” said Reyes. “If they choose pink as base, then they should stick to the family of pink colors, like plum and mauve. Eyeshadow in earth tones works well for dark-skinned women. They can use either copper or a bit of gold, but never silver, as highlighter.”

 

But for evening affairs, especially on coronation night, Reyes advised them to wear black eyeshadow. Once properly applied and blended with the necessary highlights, nothing beats black in dramatically transforming a woman’s look on stage.

 

But proceed with caution. In the hands of tyros, Reyes warned that black eyeshadow is quite “tricky and dangerous” to apply. That’s why practice makes perfect.

 

“Whatever colors you decide on, they should complement each other and blend well,” he said. “Eyeshadow should look monochromatic from afar, and not like clumps of colors with visible demarcations. If not blended well, para kayong sinuntok (you’d look like someone punched you).”

 

Reyes also cautioned the women from going for upturned eyeshadow à la Oriental princess. The outer edges of the eyeshadow should be swept straight and outward, and aligned with the eyes.

 

“Since everyone, especially the judges, would be looking up to you on stage, you would look matapang (harsh) if your eyeshadow is swept upwards.”

 

He likewise emphasized the importance of “separating” eyeshadow from eyebrows through deft use of the right highlighter.

 

Unless you want to look sad, eyebrow makeup should be applied over the actual eyebrows, never below them.

 

“Stage lighting is harsh,” he added. “Don’t underestimate the importance of putting enough eyeliner on the inside and outside contours and corners of your eyes and lids. Otherwise, your eyes would look small and lack sparkle on stage.”

 

Classic and reliable

 

Leave the green, blue and violet eyeliners for fashion shoots. For beauty contest purposes, nothing beats the classic and reliable black eyeliner.

 

For women with pimple marks, it’s advisable to use up to three layers of foundation on stage. Reyes advised contestants to use longer-lasting cake over liquid foundation.

 

“Always keep a clean, moist sponge ready to blot out unwanted streaks and colors while you do your makeup,” he said.

 

And a word on false eyelashes: Instead of putting an entire strip over each eye, Reyes advised the women to snip away teeny-weeny sections on both sides of the falsies.

 

“Use just 3/4 of the entire strip over each eye,” he said. “Don’t glue the entire false eyelashes unless you want to look sad and fake.”

 

Reyes also dispensed tips on how to achieve a flattering and event-appropriate hairdo, depending on the shape of the face. He touched on the uses and importance of wearing the right hairpieces and extensions on stage and at photo shoots.

 

For a girl with a short, round face, for instance, Reyes went for volume on top to give her the illusion of an oval face. He also applied a darker shade of foundation on specific points of her face to make it look thinner and longer.

 

“More often than not, volume is necessary to help you stand out on stage,” he said. “Whatever hairdo you choose to achieve this, it’s

important to remember what the late Elizabeth Taylor once said: “If you have it, show it.” Since you’re all beautiful, Reyes added, “always keep your hair away from your faces.”

 

And since long tresses are also de rigueur in beauty contests, Reyes told the girls to be mindful of the volume of their hair, especially near the crown.

 

“As the hair becomes longer, it tends to lose volume,” he reasoned, while demonstrating the use of a concealed hairpiece on one of his models. “By using the right hairpiece, you can add volume on top and still look young and natural.”

 

After establishing a chain of beauty salons all over Metro Manila, the self-made Reyes also pioneered in beauty makeovers on TV more than 20 years ago.

 

“Makeup is something any woman could learn and master by practicing it on herself,” he said. “But hair can sometimes be a difficult do-it-yourself project. That’s why it pays to know what works for you. Your hairstylist should welcome and consider your inputs.”

 

PHOTOS BY RICHARD REYES