Guide to Binondo eats–take it from one who grew up there | Lifestyle.INQ

OCTOBER 27, 2022

Ma Suki special asado siopao
Ma Suki special asado siopao
A Binondo storekeeper cleansing and energizing the charms (top), and the various ornamentalpineapples PHOTOSBYJILSONSECKLERTIU
A Binondo storekeeper cleansing and energizing the charms (top), and the various ornamentalpineapples PHOTOSBYJILSONSECKLERTIU

 

A trip to Binondo is always a good idea, especially on the eve of Chinese New Year.

Most people do a day trip—arriving in time for dim sum lunch, buying a few lucky charms to keep and to give, then partaking a heavy merienda before heading home.

For Inquirer photo correspondent Jilson Tiu, who grew up and still lives in nearby Jose Abad Santos St., Binondo is his stomping ground.

Every Sunday, his grandfather takes the entire family, over a dozen of them, to Ma Suki for a breakfast of congee, “mami” and “siopao.” This restaurant on Benavidez St. was established in 1930 but was originally known as Ma Kong, which is even older; Jilson says it’s well over a hundred years old.

“We get to the restaurant as early as 7 a.m. but we sometimes have to wait so we can all be seated together,” he said.

Charms and candies
Charms and candies

 

Jilson’s grandfather has another reason for going to Ma Suki weekly—to have his blood pressure checked by a doctor whose clinic is nearby.

Another favorite of Jilson and his family is the Ling Nam Wanton Parlor at the corner of Alonzo and Kipuja Sts. The menu is limited to noodles and dim sum, but servings are huge and hearty. Try the beef wanton noodles—a hefty serving of hand-pulled noodles, seasoned beef and meaty dumplings in a tasty broth. At P170 a bowl, it’s huge enough for two.

“We also order the siomai,” Jilson said. “It’s a bit expensive at P70 for two pieces but each one is huge and also good for sharing.”

 

 

Ma Suki special asado siopao
Ma Suki special asado siopao

 

 

 

There are times when he treats friends to a hot pot dinner at Golden Fortune Seafood Restaurant on the ground floor of Peace Hotel (1283 Soler St.). Its huge dining hall has a wall of aquariums with live seafood. Jilson goes straight for the dim sum that includes shrimp siomai, spareribs with tausi sauce, stuffed beancurd roll and sweet or savory siopao. Between 7-11 a.m. (Mondays-Saturdays), 2-5:30 p.m. or 9 p.m.-1 a.m., the dim sum is sold at 30 percent off.

Ornamental apples
Ornamental pineapples

Does he ever get tired of eating Chinese food regularly?

“It’s comfort food,” said Jilson. “My younger siblings long for pizza and burgers, but I like Chinese food.”

Follow the author on Twitter @raoulcheekee and Instagram @raoulck

 

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