What are ‘umami’ and ‘linamnam’? | Lifestyle.INQ

OCTOBER 27, 2022

These are culinary terms that often defy specific definition. Yes, both refer to taste, but what kind of taste?

Umami is more subliminal while linamnam is actually felt.

Richard Hosking from Cambridge, a professor in Hiroshima Shadu University who has lectured on Japanese food, is the author of the “Dictionary of Japanese Food, Ingredients and Culture.”

He has lived in Japan for four decades. In his book, he wrote that umami is the tastiness factor in food, specifically identified with certain amino acids including Monosodium Glutamate (MSG). It is said to be the fifth taste, present in many food.

On the other hand, noted artist and chef Claude Tayag, in the book he co-wrote with wife Maryanne titled “Linamnam,” said that Filipino cuisine might be all flavorful with the basic tastes—sweet, sour, salty, bitter—but it also evokes emotion (kilig) or excitement.

To this nouveau food writer then, umami is a taste enhancer while linamnam is the taste that lingers in the palette and imparts full satisfaction from a dish.

Nanbantei of Tokyo

G/F , Corte de las Palmas, Alabang Town Center, tel. 7720762.

Its battle cry is “Harmony of Flavors,” so surely this restaurant is an ideal representative of Japanese cuisine’s umami factor.

Dining area—There is a loft to accommodate latecomers. On special occasions like traditional holidays, banners greeting diners are hung on the wall. Tables are conveniently arranged for easy movement.

Service—Quick.

Staff—Friendly in smart outfits done Kimono-style for the young women.

Suggested orders—The family opted to concentrate on the skewers. Grilling and doing food on skewers and grillers date back to so many years of Japanese culinary techniques.

Soy sauce is a basic condiment in Japanese food. Soy-bean was brought to Japan by China, but the Japanese perfected soy sauce. We might argue for our own patis, but while both are salty, they are different in texture and consistency. Patis is made of fermented small shrimps (alamang).

Some people have said Japanese food is bland. Not anymore—proof are those in the menu of Nanbantei.

As one sits down, the staff offers a bowl of sliced cucumbers and carrots, with a dip of black beans and soy.

A good starter is Salmon Maki with Japanese mayo, kani, cucumber and avocado—refreshing and light. Then go for the rest of the skewers; the asparagus wrapped in bacon provides crunch. Get a platter of mixed skewers—beef, chicken and pork. Add the duo of Chicken Wings and Baby Squid with Sweet Corn Kernels, all done in savory traditional Japanese sauces—Ponzu, Yakiniku and Yakitori.

There was actually no need for any dip because everything was flavorful, delightful and filling. By the time the dishes were consumed, the umami in each dish had conquered the palette!

Service and government charges are added to the bill. Senior cards are honored.

Rating – 2 Spoons

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