It is one of the prized vegetables whose harvest is eagerly awaited at spring time. White asparagus, dug out from the earth, pale and wan like the color of moonlight, is celebrated for its sweet, slightly nutty flavor, and its delicate texture.
In Germany, the harvest season for white asparagus starts in April, after the last snow of winter has melted and the sun begins to spread its warmth.
Yet, there is no sun in the growing of white asparagus. The spears are planted under the soil, heavily covered and protected from sunlight. Without chlorophyll to turn them green, the spears appear, when they emerge from the soil, a pristine white.
At Cucina Restaurant in Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, chef de cuisine Andrea Delzanno has crafted a sumptuous menu that showcases the virtues of white asparagus.
Meaty, sweet
“The quality and aroma of white asparagus varies from region to region due to the different soils and weather patterns that affect harvesting,” Delzanno says. For Cucina, Delzanno has chosen to import the triple “A” class asparagus from Germany, which are meatier and sweeter. The asparagus spears are shipped to Hong Kong three times a week, assuring their freshness and newness.
Born and raised in Piedmont, a gastronomic center in the northwest of Italy, Delzanno studied in the prestigious Scuola Alberghiera G Pastore Varallo Sesia, then trained with Michelin-star chefs in reputable Italian restaurants. Since moving to Hong Kong, he has won a number of awards and has made Cucina restaurant a popular dining destination.
Personal favorite
For our first course, we had Delzanno’s personal favorite: two whole asparagus spears simply poached and served with Hollandaise sauce and Parma ham. With the asparagus in the starring role, it was the perfect introduction to this prized delicacy.
The spears were thick and meaty, yet their texture was delicate and refined. The sweetness lingered on the taste buds, but only for a brief moment, before dissolving into faintly bittersweet notes.
For the creamy soup that followed, the asparagus shared the limelight with a sprinkling of Ossetra caviar and scallops from Hokkaido, a Japanese region known for its seafood. With this esteemed trio, every spoonful of the soup was sheer indulgence.
The plate of ravioli was equally impressive. They were curled on a plate like rosebuds in half bloom and contained chunks of succulent Boston lobsters and white asparagus. The sauce made of cherry tomatoes from Sicily was enhanced by vanilla oil, which Delzanno makes himself using vanilla pod and oil.
Tempting dessert
No meal is complete without dessert, and Cucina delivered—in high-tech fashion. Instead of carting in plates of sweets, a waiter displayed the offerings on an iPad, with a descriptive annotation of each.
There was tiramisu, panna cotta, chocolate sphere, crepes suzette with vanilla ice cream, crème brulée and apple crumble, among others. The strawberry ice cream covered by swirls of white meringue and garnished with fresh strawberries was just too tempting to resist.
The white asparagus menu is just one of several promotions that draws an ever increasing number of patrons to Cucina. Last April, the featured specialty was artichokes. Next in line, from July till September, the seafood promotion will feature Delzanno’s take on Boston lobsters, tiger prawns and razor clams.
It sounds like another tantalizing array of seasonal specialties. But for now till July 4, for lunch and dinner, the white asparagus reigns supreme in Cucina.
Cucina Restaurant, L/6, Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong; tel. 21130808, e-mail [email protected].
