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The truffled mac ‘n’ cheese, eggs benedict, chicken leg confit are excellent

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By the time this article runs, half the town will be holed up contemplating the sorrowful mysteries, and the other half will be partying on the beach.

Posted: April 17th, 2014 in Food,Headlines | Read More »

London calling–but it’s a mixed bag for foodies

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Kashke Bajemdan, Persian aubergines with fried onions and taftoon bread at
Alounak

The new red bus for London is now plying the routes in most parts of the city. For those of us who loved the old, iconic Routemaster, the new version is a poor palimpsest of the original, mimicking elements of its predecessor’s style but missing the point entirely. The trappings remain, but the spirit is no longer there.

Posted: April 10th, 2014 in Editor's Pick,Food,Headlines | Read More »

Well-meaning if befuddled– but the steaks remain faultless

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COWRIE Grill interiors

Across large swathes of the Pacific, as well as China and Africa, the cowrie shell was used as a form of currency up to the mid-19th century.

Posted: March 20th, 2014 in Editor's Pick,Food,Headlines | Read More »

Not ‘kinilaw’ masters yet, but well on their way

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KINILAW de Oro

After whining last week about food at beach resorts these days not being beachy enough, my online research for where to go on Saturday night threw up an interesting possibility: a restaurant that specializes in two things that, for me, would go perfectly with sand between one’s toes and a clear, motionless blue horizon.

Posted: March 13th, 2014 in Food,Headlines | Read More »

Self-conscious Vietnamese joint–but very good pho

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PHO Bo Vien

Last weekend I thought I would do something insanely original, and beat the crowds by going to the beach at the end of February rather than when the floodgates opened in March. I imagined a small twin-propeller aircraft with just the family on board, a deserted resort, and the splendor of vast stretches of white sand to ourselves.

Posted: March 6th, 2014 in Editor's Pick,Featured Gallery,Food,Headlines | Read More »

Unappetizing burger, excellent tea–how foreign chains are impacting the local food scene

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The second act of the administration opened with a great tempest, a rabble swarming with unrest at the web of plunder and an increasingly vocal opposition shifting into high gear for 2016.

Posted: February 27th, 2014 in Editor's Pick,Food,Headlines | Read More »

The best dishes of American regions under one roof

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KETTLE in Shangri-La Plaza East Wing

The first time I went to America as a young boy, my family stayed with an aunt and uncle who had a home in the suburbs. After a transpacific flight on a Pan Am DC-10 and then a connecting leg on a Trans-World Airways Boeing 727, we arrived at a house that had carpets from wall to wall and even up the stairs.

Posted: February 20th, 2014 in Editor's Pick,Food,Headlines | Read More »

Black Pig–an amenable resto worth the drive to Alabang

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OVEN-BAKED pork belly and bone marrow

After the splendid debut of Black Sheep, another dark animal has wandered into town. Well, not quite into town, but close enough at the outskirts of town; nearer than Antonio’s and much nearer than Quezon City, which has become its own dining ecosystem these days.

Posted: February 13th, 2014 in Editor's Pick,Food,Headlines | Read More »

Checking out the ramen scene–there’s no stopping the craze

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RAMEN Nagi interiors

How much can one really say about ramen? As it turns out, a lot: There are people like David Chang, impresario and owner of Momofuku, who are obsessed with it. Ippudo, probably the most famous brand in the ramen franchise world, has been drawing crowds in the East Village since it opened, and is soon to open in Manila. There was a movie about it, “Tampopo,” in 1985.

Posted: February 6th, 2014 in Editor's Pick,Food,Headlines | Read More »

For good food, go where the Chinese foodies live these days–Greenhills

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The Chinese-Filipino community’s reaction to Chinese New Year being declared a special nonworking holiday has been mostly grumbles: “What, another business day lost this year?”

Posted: January 30th, 2014 in Editor's Pick,Food,Headlines | Read More »

Bread is the latest ‘it’ food in Metro Manila

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HOMEMADE sourdough bread

Bread has become the latest obsession in Manila, which can only be a good thing. Pan de sal was recently featured in Saveur, described as “pillowy-soft,” though it needn’t be; the best has the merest semblance of a crust and a mature, slightly fermented, decidedly non-industrial interior.

Posted: January 23rd, 2014 in Food,Headlines | Read More »

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