FOR SOMEONE WHO CREates his own wines and who goes around the world promoting them, it was unbelievable to learn that Luc Baudet doesn?t serve his Mas Neuf wines to guests at home.

To explain why, he told the story of a dinner where one of his guests, a charcutier (processed meat maker), when asked by Baudet if he ever ate his own sausages, was told that he didn?t. Then Baudet looked at me to ask if I read what I wrote after it?s published. For a while I was stumped and then said, maybe a glance but not line by line.

His shrug and smile implied ?I told you so.?

Baudet is almost sure he will detect defects in his wines. He says he strives for perfection and makes his wines with a lot of passion and skill, such that he isn?t eager to open his bottle and find out he could have improved on his product. He reminded me that wines need plenty of time to become what they?re supposed to be, and the results will only be known many years later.

You can be patient in the waiting but can be impatient with yourself because of the imperfections, he said.

Smooth and light

We talked before the dinner featuring his Chateau Mas Neuf wines at Le Soufflé Top of the Citi in Makati. He was called once in a while to taste the wines to be served that evening. The Tradition Rouge 2003 during cocktails was smooth and light.

Four more red wines were served that evening. All of them either have high ratings from wine critics or have won gold medals for their high quality. The Cuvee La Mourvache 2005 was taken with the beef carpaccio and black truffles. The lobster bisque was paired with a syrah, the Avec des Si Rouge 2005. The main course of grilled lamb was taken with Compostelle 2005, my choice among the wines, probably because it went well with the meat, a full-bodied red with a hint of coffee.

But Baudet?s smile when the Armonio 2004 was served more than hinted he was extremely pleased with this particular product. It?s a collaboration with another renowned wine maker, Louis Mitjavile, who works in Saint Emilion, a wine area that produces superb wines.

He told our host, wine distributor Lester Harvey of Zen Asia, Inc., that he found some bottles with one of his Asian distributors and he will bring those back to France. Maybe he will serve them at home, after all.

Traditional vs industrial

Unlike many of the wine makers I?ve met, Luc Baudet didn?t inherit the winery. He had a passion for wines and, so, with like-minded people, they searched for a location and found it in the southernmost part of the Rhone Valley, the Chateau Mas Neuf.

For growing wines, terroir or the combination of soil, climate and temperature is important. His group was pleased with the heat during the day and the dip in temperature at night, the so-called Rhone paradox, giving their wines the bouquet, body and flavor desired.

But Baudet?s desire to make wines is backed by his education and work experience. He obtained a college degree in Agronomy specializing in Food Science. After that, he worked with the group that yearly awards the best traditional French products, the Le Concours General Agricole.

Subtleties

As part of his military service, he stayed in Ireland for eight months, where he learned as well about blending whisky, including training his palate to discern subtleties in flavors. His stay there must have also facilitated his fluency in English, as much as his stint with multinational companies for eight years.

The Chateau Mas Neuf is composed of 80 hectares with a permanent team of 10. But during the harvest, an additional 15 come in. Every year the vineyard produces about 40,000 cases of wines.

When asked about organic farming, the in word these days in agriculture, Baudet said it was more important that there should be respect for the customer, which includes doing what is good for him or her. Besides, he lives on the estate with his wife and two children and he wants them to be safe there, drink water, have a healthy life.

Baudet brings back the traditional way of producing wine, of personally tending to the vines, harvesting and making the wines?in contrast to what he considers ?industrial? wines, where the chateau no longer has the family living there but is occupied by office workers concerned only with the bottom line.

He wants wine enthusiasts to go beyond the technical information. The focus should be on the pleasure of the table food, wine and company all together. And with that, for the umpteenth time that evening, we clinked our glasses in agreement.

E-mail pinoyfood04@yahoo.com.