Tap into your masculine side and work with the season’s new androgynous makeup

Photographs by Jo Ann Bitagcol

Makeup by Qua Kingson for Laura Mercier

Hairstyle by Felicity Son for Kiehl’s Stylist Series

Nails by Nail Spa Lounge by Ellabell Upper G/F Northeast Square, Connecticut Street, Greenhills

Tel. No. 655-3638

Model: Fatima Rios of Mercator Model Management

Wine-stained lips

Deglamorize your favorite red lip for evenings, and choose a dark purplish red stain instead

Gray pinstripe jacket, Joey Samson; silver ‘Parentesi’ pierced cuff and ‘Anish Kapoor’ B Zero 1 ring in pink gold and stainless steel, both from Bulgari

Dark eyebrows

Give your everyday makeup a brooding touch with full, dark brows

Dark blue pinstriped button-down polo, The Ramp; ‘Fortuna Grande’ silver necklace and black cotton lace strap, both from Bulgari

Matte watermelon lips + slicked-back hair

Balance a sleek updo and brown makeup tones with matte pink lip color for just a hint of femininity

Black blazer, People R People; ‘Cruise Star Original’ 45mm Chrono watch in brown, Technomarine

Gunmetal and brown smoky eye

Toughen up the fail-proof smoky eye with dark gray and brown tones, sans eyeliner

Dark blue houndstooth blazer, Joey Samson; ‘B Zero 1′ white gold ring with three bands, ‘B Zero 1’ white gold ring with four bands, and ‘B Zero 1’ white gold ring with five bands, all from Bulgari

CHEAT SHEET:

Wine-stained lips

All ladies must have their perfect red lipstick shade down pat by now, thanks to the runway shows of the past year, so we say it’s time to let it rest and substitute it with a different dark lip color and finish for our cocktail needs. Just as easy to put on, and with the same instant “day-to-night” factor as a swipe of red, wine-colored lip stain gives this evening look a more androgynous feel. Laura Mercier makeup artist Qua Kingson advises to choose a shade according to your personality rather than what your skin tone dictates, “because each woman has her own taste. If you want to be on the safe side, choose a shade that’s neither too loud nor too dark.” To create a stain effect with staying power with your existent wine-colored lippie, Kingson says layer by applying lip tint before lip liner, then finish with the lipstick. “Use tissue to dab off excess lipstick until you achieve your desired lip stain look.” Natural makeup or a soft, smoky eye complements this look best.

Dark eyebrows

Bold eyebrows were everywhere during fashion week, but it was the boyish, full-brow, slightly untamed version. Kingson suggests eyebrow templates for first-timers. He says, “Choose your weapon, whatever you’re comfortable using, whether pencil, powder, or gel, then look in the mirror under white light to see the spaces you need to fill in. Remember that white light doesn’t lie. The best way to fill in your brows is to imitate the growth and position of the hair to make it look natural. Do not just rub the pencil or gel onto your brows; draw gentle diagonal strokes following your original brow.” To keep from resembling a cavewoman who’s never heard of threading, try using the dark shade of powder that already comes with your eyebrow powder set, or a pencil that’s a shade darker than what you’re already using. Moderation is key for this look. If you already draw full brows, simply try a darker shade or doing without a brow lightening gel. If your brows are on the skinny side, try a slightly fuller shape. Resist the urge to curl your lashes and wear eyeliner, to keep eyes from looking too feminine. Clean up the brow area with a large eyeshadow brush and a bit of loose powder after.

Matte watermelon lips + slicked-back hair

Knowing the right combination of manly details with feminine touches is important for beautiful androgyny. A generally brown makeup look paired with a sleek, low bun or ponytail can already look strong, and a yummy shade of matte pink lipstick provides just the right amount of softness. Kingson used no eyeliner or mascara, which can typically add femininity to any makeup look, and laying off these two products can already add instant boyishness to your looks. Skipping blush and focusing on other features are other key tricks for this trend. Kingson says to use cool or blueish pinks for women with cool undertones, and warm or orangey pinks for women with warm skin tones. If the perfect watermelon pink lipstick is on the creamy side, try applying a light layer of liquid foundation on your lips before the lipstick, then dab with translucent powder. Kingson advises to add a bit of lip balm on top if the lips become a bit too matte.

Gunmetal and brown smoky eye

A bit of rock and earth inspiration can toughen up the smoky eye. Ditch the heavy black eyeshadow and try a shimmery gunmetal gray on the eyelid, and blend with matte brown until past the creases. To do a smoky eye, Kingson says, “Use a blender brush, then start from the outer corner of your eyes, going toward the inner corner.” It’s best to use single strokes so the pigments blend well into each other, then slowly spread the color until you reach your brow bone with the same stroke. Women with protruding eyes should stick to matte eyeshadows, while those with smaller lids can mix a metallic and matte eyeshadow, he says. “But the trick is to apply the color with proper gradation or blending.” For longer-lasting eye makeup, Kingson says to try applying cream eyeshadow in the same shade before powder, “so it stays and the pigments won’t fall. It will also keep the smoky eye clean for a long time.” Another trick is to cover the eye lightly with cream or stick concealers to create a strong base for the powder and pigments to adhere to, instead of just foundation.

LOOK Magazine is available in leading newsstands and bookstores nationwide.