The bespoke process begins at choosing the fabric.
At Rustan’s, they carry about 70 percent of Ascot Chang’s 6,000 yarn-count fabric samples from such revered names as Thomas Mason, Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna.
Justin Chang says a man should have at least five white shirts in his closet, so it may be prudent to pick whites on your first order. At Ascot Chang, they take a minimum of three shirts per order, starting at about P8,000/piece. (A three-piece suit starts at P100,000.) He adds that blue and pale pink are also popular choices.
The customer is then asked to pick from 25 collar and cuff styles. If you’re not quite sure what suits your face shape, Chang suggests the modified spread, as it’s often flattering on most men. At this point, you can also specify the style of monogram you want and where you want it placed. They have 24 monogram styles and 30 thread-color choices.
Double-breasted suits are the trend now, but this isn’t flattering on all men, especially shorter and stouter Asians, says Chang. He also discourages against very slim fits or too-short
lengths. The key is moderation.
“In custom-made we always believe in proportions,” says Chang’s father Tony. “We don’t recommend going extreme unless you’re really dressing for a season, because fashion is changing. Today you may look good, but after a season it may be too much. We always recommend to go moderate so you can wear your suit for a couple of years or even longer.”
The next step is most crucial: the measurements. Wear the undergarments you typically use under your shirt when you have your measurements taken—even if it’s Spanx.
Chang says men’s posture and fitness regimens have changed a lot in the years since his grandfather began making shirts. Men’s bearing has improved, and clothes look generally better on those who hit the gym on a regular basis.
Rustan’s faxes the specifics to Hong Kong where the shirts and suits are handmade. Ascot Chang employs up to 50 tailors, and they’re proud of their 22-stitches-per-inch method (versus 18 with others), which results in more durable shirts. Shirts are sewn using single-needle French seams. Unlike fast-fashion factories, Ascot Chang churns out only about 700 shirts a week.
The final step is the fitting. A shirt usually just requires one fitting, and takes about a week to finish. A suit takes longer at four weeks, with two to three fittings. The company keeps your measurements and patterns, and any modifications thereafter, for 10 years for future reorders. Cheche V. Moral