For Jose Benitez and wife Caryll Martinez of Denovo, “local is the new premium.” This belief, they say, sets apart their debut collections of “fast find” jewelry pieces from predictable pieces produced by more established foreign brands.
To realize their vision of producing “different stories” catering to various market segments, they collaborated with six guest designers from various fields. The fact that each designer brings with him/her a different set of perspectives, aesthetics and experiences makes Denovo’s initial offerings distinct from one another.
They are writer Cheryl Tiu, sculptor and painter Jinggoy Buensuceso, fashion designer Maureen Disini, sculptor and installation artist Leeroy New, accessories designer Neil Felipp and sculptor Olivia d’Aboville.
A number of the pieces, particularly those designed by Buensuceso and New, are unisex. While Tiu’s intricate and feminine-looking pieces are culled from memories of her many travels, D’Aboville’s collection is composed of huge, organic pieces that mimic twigs, branches and various natural formations.
The couple also tapped experienced accessories designer Georgina Ong to translate and fine-tune a number of the artists’ designs, such as rings, necklaces, pendants, bracelets, brooches, cufflinks and even a money clip, into workable jewelry pieces.
“Their pieces are what we call wearable art,” said Benitez. “There’s nothing quite like them in the market today.”
P20,000 to P2 million
These limited-edition designer pieces can range in price from P20,000 to P2 million, depending on their size and make. Unlike in certain jewelry companies where what you see is what you get, Denovo is open to collaborating with clients in the choice of materials.
Apart from high-grade black and white diamonds and other precious stones, Denovo only uses either gold (14 and 18 karats) or gold-plated silver. Each center stone comes with a certificate from the Gemological Institute of America to assure customers that they’re getting their money’s worth, said Martinez.
Although the company is new, it draws from a 30-year heritage of fine jewelry making. Martinez’s family has been in the “old school” jewelry business ever since she can remember.
“My husband and I decided to go on our own,” said the entrepreneur, swimwear designer and mother of two. “It has always been our dream to do something together.”
Denovo’s boutique is located at the newly opened Century City Mall on Kalayaan Avenue, Makati. The couple plans to open three more outlets in Metro Manila within the next year or so.
For his part, Benitez, who also manages his own business, wants to make jewelry pieces, particularly diamonds, “more accessible.”
“Many people find diamonds intimidating,” he said. “With the help of these artists, we hope to encourage new customers to start their own stories by buying and gifting themselves and their loved ones with jewelry for every milestone in their lives.”
There are a number of reasons why the couple chose this initial batch of designers. Apart from bringing with them varying aesthetics, each talent has been tasked to tap into a specific market.
Tiu, for instance, was asked to come up with designs that would hopefully appeal to independent women, while Disini’s directive was to appeal to future brides with her collection of diamond-studded engagement and wedding rings.
While New and D’Aboville were asked to cater to present-day urbanites, Felipp was assigned to take care of millennials. This left Buensuceso to fashion precious and semiprecious gift items mostly for men.
Soft patterns
“Apart from their individual directive,” said Benitez, “each artist was free to do whatever he or she wanted.”
Tiu’s five-piece “Global Collection,” composed of rings, bracelets, earrings and a cuff, was inspired by such historic and iconic structures as Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock, Budapest’s Fisherman’s Bastion and Rio de Janeiro’s Metropolitan Cathedral.
Instead of going solid and linear, the first-time jewelry designer opted for soft, curved patterns and latticework for a lighter, more intricate feel. A pair of stackable bracelets even had touches of color to represent the stained glass windows of the Rio cathedral.
“Every piece in my collection represents a country or city I was drawn to,” she said. “But my representation of the Philippines is totally different.”
It’s not that Tiu didn’t find any appealing tourist spot in the Philippines. But after seeing how her countrymen rose with renewed hope and energy in the wake of Super Typhoon “Yolanda,” she decided to draw inspiration instead from the Filipino character.
She appropriated the sun and stars on the Philippine flag, which she reinterpreted and interspersed with a cross, to form an eye-catching statement cuff.
Fluid pieces
Because of his background in fashion, New produced fluid gold and rhodium-plated pieces that borrowed heavily from religious iconography. But you need not be Catholic to appreciate and even wear one of his creations.
In lieu of crosses, he drew inspiration from angel’s wings to produce the “Seraph Collection.” The only recognizable Catholic icon is New’s lovely carved pendant, which resembles Jesus’ Sacred Heart.
Felipp chose Abu, Aladdin’s tailed sidekick, as his muse for his “Simian Collection” of monkey-shaped necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings.
“My pieces are a reflection of Abu, a mischievous monkey who’s drawn to anything shiny, shimmery and splendid,” he said. “I want the wearer to have fun because even though our outer shell changes, our inner child remains.”
His pair of necklaces, for instance, is made of strands of small gold monkey figures that appear “normal” and office-appropriate from afar. Upon closer scrutiny, however, one can’t help
but notice its whimsical appeal.
Finally, Buensuceso’s “Equilibrium Collection” celebrates balance and is designed to appeal to individuals who favor simplicity and linear details over frilly carvings.
The artist took inspiration from leaders and achievers who live intense, even punishing, lives. The collection is his way of reminding them of the importance of living a “balanced” life.
“With our country’s booming economy, my husband and I felt that it was high time we introduce a line of homegrown jewelry,” said Martinez. “Since almost everything imported is now available in the country, local is the way to go. With the right designs and materials, it has become the new premium.”
PHOTOS BY KIMBERLY DELA CRUZ