If once is good enough, then twice is far better.
The twice-cooked chicken and pork adobo of Mitzi Aragon Kaspar has a more intense and satisfying flavor. All the essential seasoning from the initial cooking process seeps into the flesh liberally as the adobo is left to sit for more than 12 hours before the meat is seared to seal in the goodness.
The result is a deep but balanced salty-sour finish with extra juicy bite. The meat becomes especially tender from the marination, while the flavors are heightened and the exterior beautifully crisped during the browning. The basic combination of ingredients and the double-cooking technique gives better results in terms of distinct taste and aroma.
“I learned this adobo recipe from my mom (Monina Sarenas Aragon),” says Kaspar. “But, along the way, I adjust the taste and use various seasonings.”
Kaspar uses a lot of garlic in the mixture. She combines balsamic vinegar with the local white vinegar to neutralize the acidity. To lighten the color and taste, she blends Japanese soy sauce with local soy sauce. Then she allows the chicken, pork, garlic, rock salt, bay leaf, vinegar, soy sauce and peppercorn to boil in a casserole.
“I layer the pork under the chicken because it’s tougher and longer to cook,” Kaspar says.
After cooking, the meat is separated from its sauce. The sauce is sifted and placed in a container and refrigerated. The next day, Kaspar removes the white lard or fat that has formed on top of the sauce and uses the same lard to fry the meat.
“So, there’s no waste,” says Kaspar. “You still keep the flavors together. If you’re uncomfortable about the fat, you can opt to use olive oil to brown the meat.”
The meat is fried in low heat till golden brown.
“My children (Samantha, 18, and Calvin, 11) like it crispy. The sauce is either poured on top of the meat or served separately on the table.”
Thai Jasmine rice pairs well with the chicken-pork adobo. But Kaspar’s Swiss husband Martin likes his adobo with risotto. The homemade risotto (minus the cheese flavor) blends wonderfully with the adobo sauce, giving off a richer taste and mouthfeel.
Passion
Cooking has always been a passion for Kaspar. She enjoys reading cookbooks and food magazines.
Her cooking skill comes naturally because she has been surrounded by good cooks.
“I’m so lucky that I grew up in a family, both paternal and maternal side, who are all good in the kitchen,” Kaspar declares.
Though she didn’t pursue culinary studies in school (she finished Humanities at the University of the Philippines, Diliman), she eventually married a chef. Her husband now owns and runs L’entrecote, a French Swiss restaurant at Burgos Circle, Forbes Town Center, Bonifacio Global City in Taguig.
After school, Kaspar became a flight attendant for Philippine Airlines in the 1980s for 13 years. With her stunning beauty, she became the airline endorser, doing television commercials, calendars, posters, standees, etc.
She stopped flying when she had her first child and the family moved to Switzerland. The family lived in Zurich for nine years, then stayed in Sydney for another three years during her husband’s stints as a chef.
Even while in Switzerland, Kaspar would cook her adobo to the delight of her husband’s family.
“Most of my in-laws had asked me to teach them how to cook adobo,” she says. “And, they would cook it regularly. I remember one of Martin’s nieces celebrated her 16th birthday and held a big party. One of the dishes served was the adobo. She cooked it herself and it has become her specialty as well.”
Other specialties
Aside from adobo, her children enjoy her baked fish with veggies, lots of ginger and onion leeks, lemon and herbs, and drizzled with sesame oil and Japanese soy sauce for that Oriental taste.
Another favorite is a pasta dish sauteed only in garlic, onions, anchovies, capers, fresh tomatoes and garnished with basil leaves and parmesan cheese.
When not cooking for her family and fetching her kids to and from school, she helps her husband in the restaurant retail bread business while running her own hair salon in Greenbelt.
Mitzi’s Pork and Chicken Adobo
- 2 k chicken thighs
- 1 ½ k pork spareribs
- 1/3 c Silver Swan soy sauce
- ¼ c Kikkoman soy sauce
- ¼ c white vinegar
- ¼ c 10-year aged balsamic vinegar
- 2-3 bulbs garlic, crushed
- 1 tbsp peppercorns
- 1-3 pcs bay leaves
Thoroughly wash pork and chicken. Combine all ingredients in a thick casserole. Let it boil for about 15 minutes. Simmer on medium-low heat for another 45 minutes.
Let it cool and leave it for at least 12 hours. Separate and sift the sauce and place in a covered container. Chill. In another container place the chicken and pork. Cover. Refrigerate overnight.
Just before serving: Remove all the thick white lard/fat on the surface of the refrigerated sauce and set aside. Boil sauce and set aside. On low heat (make sure to use a nonstick thick pan), use the white lard/fat to fry the chicken and pork until brown and crisp. Serve on a platter with adobo sauce on the side. Sprinkle with roasted garlic.
Risotto
- 200 g vialone rice
- 10 g olive oil
- 10 g onion, finely chopped
- 50 g garlic, finely chopped
- 60 ml white wine
- 7 L chicken stock
- salt and pepper to taste
Boil chicken stock. Heat olive oil in pan and sauté garlic and onions until transparent (no coloration). Add rice. Deglaze with white wine and let the wine completely evaporate. Add chicken hot stock till rice is covered. Bring to boil and let it simmer. From time to time stir and add stock again. Do this for 15-18 minutes till the rice absorbs all the stock and the rice is nice and al dente. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm.
E-mail the author at vbaga@inquirer.com.ph