Coffee is becoming more and more of a specialty rather than just a beverage you drink to wake up. Coffee beans are now being developed and processed in the same way wine has been treated for centuries. We’re back to the basics, and it’s now all about just plain black coffee—from how it’s grown to how it’s processed.
Recently, Cosimo Libardo, past president of the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe and now managing director for Toby’s Estate, paid a visit to Manila to tell us the whole deal about specialty coffee and how the community around it is helping it become both a prime necessity and novelty in our daily lives.
Can you define what is specialty coffee?
Specialty coffee is a technical definition. It is coffee grown, harvested, and processed in a special way to preserve their exceptional ch
aracteristics. When the coffee is served within a specific parameter and it scores 80 on the scale of the
Specialty Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) and only has three minor defects, that’s considered a specialty.
What do you think of the quality of the Philippine coffee beans?
Very little coffee is grown in the Philippines right now so when you think about it, all the coffee grown here is imported. But it also depends on how much you want to buy your beans for and how much you plan to sell them. That’s a very big factor. So you can go from companies that really make good coffee—there are a few—to ones that are more price-oriented, like in every industry. It depends on what the target audience that each brand has.
The Philippines is reflecting the global trend of having all different kinds of coffee. You have Starbucks that serves up different things and appeals to a certain group. Then you have us, Toby’s, who do things in a certain way. The more you spend, the more you get, usually. It’s like buying a Toyota and a Ferrari. They are both good cars, it just depends on what you do with it. We are more about providing a unique experience, not [just] in the ways we present coffee or do latté art, but also with the taste.
What do you think are the challenges the Philippines faces in the global coffee industry?
I think the coffee industry here is quite young so there are certain things that aren’t developed in a certain way [like in other countries.]
What are the coffee trends for the next year?
It will be more about processing. There’s a lot of talk about fermentation using wine techniques. It changes the flavor profile of the coffee [with some varieties that have a] Pinot Noir after-taste.
Coffee is a natural product. There is a lot [of] research, investment, and experiments that are happening. There [are] a lot of areas in coffee where there are new methods.
How do coffee shops affect the way we experience coffee?
Coffee is a vehicle for emotions. That’s why you give news, good or bad, over coffee. There are certain emotions that your palate will remember and never forget. You’re always going to remember that good cup of coffee. With coffee shops, three elements are important: mental space, design, and the attitude. The interaction of the barista with the consumer is also crucial. In the end, what makes a coffee a specialty is what makes it special to the consumer, so it’s not just the coffee per se. It’s the whole experience.
With additional reporting by Eric Salta
Photo by Jar Concengco