Season after season, MAC takes makeup looks and trends from the biggest fashion shows in New York, London, Paris and Milan to its beauty counters so women from all over the world can breathe new life into their makeup routines.
“It’s a radical season, very dark and light,” said Terry Barber.
Los Angeles-based MAC Senior Makeup Artist John Stapleton flew to the Philippines this week to share the latest beauty trends for Autumn/Winter 2015. John, who has been with MAC since 1996 and has done the makeup of Kelly Osbourne, Pamela Anderson and Sienna Miller, was no stranger to fashion: he was a model for two years before he began his career as a makeup artist. “I just want to enhance and make people feel good. I do love the avant-garde but most people don’t want black paint all over their faces.”
For John, being a makeup artist is magical. “You can paint in a new feeling. And with one stroke you can wash it all away.”
John shared how you can have fun with next season’s makeup trends—black lips, strong brows, lived-in makeup, a ‘70s throwback—and wear them in your everyday life.
BEAUTIFUL AND DAMNED
The look: Black lips, unconventional eyeliner, tribal tattoos, makeup with a punk edge, a bit of toughness. Makeup artist Alex Box said, “There is a rebellion this season that makes makeup feel really alive.”
Spotted at: Derek Lam, Oscar De La Renta, Monique Lhuillier, Proenza Schouler, Gareth Pugh, Giles, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Kenzo, Rick Owens, Veronique Leroy
The essentials: Feline Kohl Power Eye Pencil, Black Chromaline, Beg For It Into The Well Eye Shadow, Extreme Dimension 3D Black Lash, Media Lipstick, Spiked Eye Brows, White Face and Body Foundation
John says: “For the every woman, it might just be taking your dark pencil and making your eyes a little more smoky.”
“Black lips do not have to be opaque, there can be a sheerness to it… You can mix a little bit of Lipglass and create a black gloss for the lips. A solid black lip requires a lot more maintenance.”
“Get people to listen to what you have to say with a strong lip.”
DIY: Use a lip brush to gradually build up the color, which will last longer versus swiping it on straight from the tube. A lip brush will also help you to shape your lip line (dark lip colors can highlight asymmetrical lips). Complete the look with well-defined brows and dark, spiky lashes. And don’t be afraid to play with eyeliner.
Pro tip: Prime lips with MAC’s Prep + Prime Lip to ensure your bold lip color doesn’t feather and bleed.
Wear this look: On a night out with the girls
STRENGTH OF BEAUTY
The look: Fresh skin, toffee colors, nude lips, bronzers used even in the winter time to give a sun-kissed effect, as if “you had been skiing on the slopes of Aspen all day.” Lyne Desnoyers said, “We are defining the face without changing it.” A no-makeup makeup look with a strong brow. “This is a brows story, bushier full brows that are groomed,” says John.
Spotted at: Desigual, Prabal Gurung, Zac Posen, Jonathan Saunders, J.W. Anderson, Alberta Ferretti, DSquared2, Moschino, Fausto Puglisi, Max Mara, Salvatore Ferragamo, Chloe, Giambattista Valli (whose collaboration with MAC will be released in the Philippines later this year), Issey Miyake, Lea Peckre
The essentials: Dark Golden Mineralize Skin Finish Natural, Vintage Selection Pro Longwear Paint Pot, Studio Sculpt Defining Powder, Sweet Persuasion Huggable Glass, MAC Studio Waterweight SPF 30/PA++ with Foundation, Clear Brow Set, Just A Wisp Mineralize Blush
John says: “Hit the cheek bone to add a glowy, bronzey effect to the skin. I love using the Mineralize Foundation as an effect product, using it as a highlight.. Favoring the highlight instead of the contour to give a more natural, glowy look. Highlights look more real and more pretty.”
“I’m not a fan of adding a lot of powder because of cakiness.”
DIY: To get the warm look, John used a shimmery pink-brown Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Vintage Selection to give the lids subtle depth and definition. He applied the color from the lids all the way to the brow bone. “It adds hardness to the brow bone,” he says. The key look here is the strategic application of bronzer to get an all-natural glow.
Pro tip: Use a dual-fiber brush to blend Mineralize Skin Finish on the cheekbones, forehead, across the nose, and on the chin.
Wear this look: On a road trip, a first date, at the office or when you renew your passport or driver’s license
The look: Get your gray on. John thinks of this look as “the girl in high school who was always in trouble, she will go to school with a bunch of makeup on which you know is from the night before because she was out partying…” Partied-in, lived-in, worn makeup that’s sultry. Gorgeous, not gritty. “Sexy, rather than grungy,” said Terry Barber. “It’s about putting it on and taking it off until the perfect remnant remains,” said Lyne Desnoyers.
Spotted at: Altuzarra, Thom Browne, Holly Fulton, Paul Smith, Sass and Bide, Marques’ Almeida, Simone Rocha, Marni, Costume National, Roberto Cavalli, Lemaire, Ann Demeulemeester, Manish Arora
The essentials: Ebony Eye Pencil, Tailor Grey Pro Longwear Paint Pot, MAC Studio Conceal and Correct Palette, Prep + Prime Lip, Mineralize Timecheck Lotion, Groundwork Pro Longwear Paint Pot
John says: “Ladies over 50 can try navy or gray eyeliner with a blue base. They make the whites of the eyes look whiter, making them look younger.”
DIY: While this look is all about a worn-in eye makeup look with a touch of gloss, John says you can choose a shadow infused with metallic pigment to get the sheen minus the stickiness, especially given the humidity here. He used a 252 brush with Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Tailor Grey placed along the lash line. “When you’re working like this, just create a half-moon shape (along the lids) which we will blend out in a sec,” he says. John, who works with Hollywood actors who are always in a hurry, shares his trick to a quick eye makeup look. He throws on the color fast and blends it really well with a clean 224 blending brush. “I can ensure that everything sticks right and everything is blended.”
Pro tip: Use a firm brush to pick up pigment and a soft brush for blending. “This is my shovel (firm brush) for heavy lifting where I want to put stuff in place, and this (soft brush) is my broom where I can sort of sweep it up and make it pretty,” said John.
Wear this look: At a rock concert or a picnic, or anywhere you want to look sexy
The look: A flashback for the lips: retro red shades—brick, ochre, rust, bordeaux, caramel, wine, burgundy, tobacco, cognac, aubergine. Dark, warm lips in different textures. “These tones just work on everybody, they require no effort to look chic,” said Lucia Pieroni.
Spotted at: Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan New York, Kate Spade, Houghton, Peter Pilotto, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Thomas Tait, Bluegirl, Emilio Pucci, Antonio Marras, MSGM, Acme Studios, Christian Wijnats, Veronique Branquinho
The essentials: Caramel and Terracotta Prep + Prime CC Colour Correcting SPF 30/PA++, Chili Lipstick, High Drama MAC Retro Matte Liquid, Clear Lipglass, Dance With Me MAC Retro Matte Liquid, Uninterrupted Pro Longwear Eye Shadow, Mahogany and Auburn Lip Pencils
John says: “The lip is pushed together with lip conditioner so it looks sheer and baby-like.”
“Coral is orange and red, the perfect mix of gold and red, it looks good on everybody, but coral is a scary buzzword to a lot.”
DIY: John used an old favorite—Mahogany lip pencil—paired with matte lip color Chili to get that retro red pout. He lined the lips with Mahogany and asked the model to press her lips together to give the lip a worn in look and blended it in further with a small lip brush. After adding matte lipstick Chili, he dabbed a bit of clear Lipglass on the center of the lips to make it juicy and pretty.
Pro tip: Feather out the lip color with your fingertips. Says John, “I think that’s how a lot of us started with makeup. With our fingers and Kool-Aid. Or popsicles.” Using your fingers “takes the sticky effect of the lipstick off and changes the look of it,” according to John.
Wear this look: At a meet-the-parents date, a wedding, or Sunday brunch
Read more about MAC, John Stapleton and beauty trends in an upcoming issue of Inquirer Lifestyle.