(First of two parts)
We live in a time where everyone is a self-declared foodie, where “food porn” has found its place in our lexicon, where people take photos of food instead of praying before meals, and where #nomnomnom is a hashtag made legitimate by its close to 5 million tags.
Little wonder, then, that the people who prepare the food we love have become our new rock stars, and “celebrity chef” has become a redundant term.
Like any growing metropolis, Cebu has a thriving food culture. It’s about time we turned the spotlight on the people who made it happen.
We talked to 10 chefs in Cebu whose names you ought to know. We learned about who inspires them, what they like to eat, what their specialties are.
Consider this your culinary guide for your next trip to our town.
Raki Urbina
Restaurant/s: The Laguna Group of Restaurants, which includes Café Laguna, Laguna Garden Café, Lemon Grass, Ulli’s Streets of Asia, Parilya and Laguna Catering
Culinary background: Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa Valley
Your food philosophy in three words: Make Mama proud.
A chef you look up to: Thomas Keller
Who is the one person (living or dead) you would love to cook for?
I have a few—Phoebe Cates (people who grew up in the ’80s will understand), Steve Jobs, U2 and my grandmother Remedios Bocalan Pecaña.
If you were on death row, what would your last meal be?
I mean this list from the bottom of my heart: Sinigang sa miso na kanduli at burong mustasa, served with patis amaya and siling sigang; paksiw sa manggang hilaw na ayungin; sinaing na tulingan sa gata at kamias; Purefoods corned beef sautéed in shallots; tortang giniling with patatas and Del Monte catsup; mais rice (corn grits #14); chicharon bulaklak; Mountain Dew, lots of ice; and for dessert, two sticks of Marlboro Lights Gold
If you could dine anywhere in the world, where would it be?
The streets of Morocco
Apart from your own restaurant/s, what’s your favorite place to dine in Cebu?
Catmon’s Native Chicken Haus
What is your specialty dish?
Bistek Filipino
Jason Hyatt
Restaurant/s: Abacá Boutique Resort and Restaurant, Maya Mexican Restaurant, Tavolata, Phat Pho, Beqaa, Abacá Baking Company and Luncheonette
Culinary background: New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont, US
Your food philosophy in three words: Don’t serve sh-t.
A chef you look up to: Jordan Smith because he taught me how to cook, and Patrick Glennon because he taught me to never let up.
Who is the one person (living or dead) you would love to cook for?
My late mother, so she could see that I can now cook more than an omelette.
If you were on death row, what would your last meal be?
Three giant packs of Oreo cookies with cold milk
If you could dine anywhere in the world, where would it be?
Any hawker stall in Singapore, provided my family was there.
Apart from your own restaurant/s, what’s your favorite place to dine in Cebu?
Korean restaurants like Maroo, or something Filipino—lately, it’s been Conching’s near SM.
What is your specialty dish?
My seafood pasta
Bunny Ludo-Alcordo
Restaurant/s: Oh Georg! and Café Georg
Culinary background: California Culinary Academy
Your food philosophy in three words: Simple comfort food
A chef you look up to: Chef Bo Friberg, my pastry teacher at CCA, author of The Professional Pastry Chef, and creator of the original flourless chocolate cake (which I based my Chocolate Decadence on)
walnut salad
Who is the one person (living or dead) you would love to cook for?
Jess Ainscough, who passed away early this year after seven years with cancer. She was only 30. She turned vegan in an attempt to heal herself, and through her blog, she became known as the Wellness Warrior. I don’t know her, but the reason I would have loved to cook for her is because she seemed like a truly amazing human being, and secondly, it is very challenging to cook something healthy and vegan that even carnivores would find delicious!
If you were on death row, what would your last meal be?
A slice of well-toasted Pain Poilâne slathered with slightly salted Lurpak butter and thick apricot preserves, two softboiled eggs, and a cup of cappuccino
If you could dine anywhere in the world, where would it be?
I hope to stay and dine in a fine Kyoto Ryokan one of these days so I can taste the freshest local and seasonal ingredients in that specific area.
Apart from your own restaurant/s, what’s your favorite place to dine in Cebu?
Tin Gao at the Waterfront Hotel. I am normally not into Sweet and Sour Pork, but there it is unique and exceptional. I also love its Seafood Hotpot and Prawn Salad.
What is your specialty dish?
My lasagna, pork chop with garlic herb butter, and apple candied walnut salad.
Jan P. Rodriguez
Restaurant/s: Ilaputi and Irie
Culinary background: I’m a chef by experience with over 13 years in menu development and restaurant management. I have a Bachelor of Science degree in Biology from Cebu Doctor’s College.
Your food philosophy in three words: Surprise the palate.
Chefs you look up to: David Chang, Jamie Bissonnette and Rene Redzepi
Who is the one person (living or dead) you would love to cook for?
My late great grandfather Amon. To cook, dine and converse with Papa Amon whose mind I hear was as great as that of Carnegie, Ford and Vanderbilt from the earlier years, and Branson, Cuban and Musk of today, would be priceless.
If you were on death row, what would your last meal be?
Pat LaFrieda’s dry-aged prime steak
If you could dine anywhere in the world, where would it be?
Noma in Denmark. Rene Redzepi’s expression of indigenous ingredients in creative ways that affects all the senses would be, to say the least, astounding.
Apart from your own restaurant, what’s your favorite place to dine in Cebu?
I have many go-to dishes from different restaurants—vongole from Tavolata, beef rendang paired with char kway teow with lots of pickled peppers from Chop-Chop, Maya’s steak fajitas, boneless lechon belly from Tatang’s, aglio e olio from Idea Italia, beef teppanyaki from Ginza, ika uni sushi from Yumeya, Singaporean chicken from Spice Fusion, tonkotsu ramen from Chikuzenya, soft-shell crab sandwich at Brique, lamb adobo from Café Sarree, tokwa’t baboy, crispy tadiang and S’Poppers at Isidra, pizza at La Nostra Pizzeria, black pepper shrimps from Choobi-Choobi, siomai and siopao from Taitong Steamers, pasta di Marco from Café Georg, kung pao shrimp and mochi from Tea of Spring
What is your specialty dish?
The Stroganov, Saigon adobo, grilled chikari and chicken jambalaya at Ilaputi; Irie pub burger, Fat Bastard chop and prime rib-eye steak at Irie
Roberto Kunitz
Restaurant/s: The Radisson Blu’s Feria, Pool Bar, Dilmah T-Bar, Lobby Bar and Urban Table
Culinary background: 21 years in the kitchen, Master Chef Diploma 2006 from the Hotel Management School, Heidelberg
Your food philosophy in three words:
Respect for ingredients
A chef you look up to: Thomas Keller
Who is the one person you would love to cook for?
Ken Follett, my favorite author
If you were on death row, what would your last meal be?
My mother’s braised cabbage roulade
If you could dine anywhere in the world, where would it be?
Thomas Keller’s French Laundry in Napa Valley. He creates a new nine-course tasting menu daily.
Apart from your own restaurant/s, what’s your favorite place to dine in Cebu?
Café Laguna, Maya Mexican Restaurant, Phat Pho and Zubuchon
What is your specialty dish?
I am known for my sweet potato purée and my sous vide-cooked salmon with cauliflower purée and pickled pumpkin.
To be continued