Where should Anthony Bourdain eat in the Philippines? | Lifestyle.INQ

OCTOBER 27, 2022

PEPITA’S Kitchen’s “lechon”

 

PEPITA’S Kitchen’s “lechon”
PEPITA’S Kitchen’s “lechon”

Celebrity chef, TV host and author Anthony Bourdain is in the Philippines shooting an episode of “Parts Unknown,” his CNN show that chronicles his culinary adventures around the world.

Bourdain’s fans have been flooding social media with the things they think he should eat while he’s here. Here’s our unsolicited guide for him—a delicious mix of Filipino favorites and new discoveries.

“Artsy in Maginhawa for the kare-kare; Judy Ann in Malabon for the crispy pata; Rosie’s Pancit Malabon; Abe for gising-gising and adobo; Pamana which has most of the above. Pancit Pagulong in Marikina; Pancit Lucban at Buddy’s; bulalo in Sto. Tomas, Batangas, and Tagaytay. Since Bourdain already went to Lucing by the railroad tracks in Angeles, he might as well try Sosing in Dian, Makati, and Pares Point in Chino Roces to find out what the masses are eating. My Brother’s Mustache for really good sisig; Trellis for spicy spareribs. The Seaside Market in Daang Hari, Alabang, and Macapagal Boulevard for what the Philippines is famous for: fresh fish. Yes, the sigarilyas in Wooden Spoon! But I think pwedeng tapatan ng Elar’s ang lechon ng Cebu, which Bourdain says is the best for him.

“NILAGANG bulalo” with “utak” from Green Ats Bulalohan
“NILAGANG bulalo” with “utak” from Green Ats Bulalohan

“If Bourdain wants a sample of Manila nightlife, I’ll take him to Balete@Kamias, Quezon City, for some big-band jazz, drink up and listen to vinyl records at the Bank Bar in BGC which has a secret entrance in a corner of a 7-Eleven store, and have a nightcap at Finders Keepers which is in a warehouse in Makati.” —Pocholo Concepcion

“I would take him to Madeca for the sisig taco and the pares place in Retiro, and Excelente ham because Christmas. Chef Tatung’s homey restaurant is also a good place to take him, he has different regional takes on favorite Filipino dishes, like adobo.” —Tatin Yang
“Kanin Club for crispy dinuguan; Bacolod Chicken in BF Parañaque for inasal, garlic rice, chicken chicharon, chicharon bulaklak; Pancake House for adobo sulipan; Seafood City in Cebu for anything seafood, especially alimango in sotanghon; Café Adriatico for spare ribs adobo; Goodah in BF for goto.” —Thelma Sioson San Juan
“Luyong Panciteria in Marikina for lechon pancit, Cafe Sweet Inspirations on Katipunan for Mongolian barbecue, Lugawan sa Tejeros for the lugaw with lechon.” —Ruel S. De Vera

DEKADA’S “lumpiang palabok”
DEKADA’S “lumpiang palabok”

“Trellis for sizzling sisig, Buddy’s for Pancit Lucban, Sentro for sinigang corned beef, Lamesa Grill for sigarilyas sa gata and adobo flakes, Quattro for bibingka and pork bits.” —Vangie Baga-Reyes

“Since he loves sisig, I will take Anthony Bourdain to Madeca so he can try the sisig tacos or sisig burrito and the chicken chicharon. For dessert, I’ll take him to Sebastian’s Ice Cream so he can try Ian Carandang’s fantastic creations—the mangga’t bagoong, sapin-sapin and champorado with dilis ice cream.” —Pam Pastor

“Anthony Bourdain visits a lot of holes-in-the-wall, eateries and pondahan. Here are my top al-fresco picks:

“Belito’s Vineyard, an off-the-road Filipino-Spanish restaurant on Bajada Road, Davao City, for paella negra with chorizo and calamansi, kinilaw na malasugue (blue marlin), spicy ribs, stir-fried shiitake with bok choy, gambas, calamari in olive oil and lengua served tapas-style, plus homemade durian ice cream. All these with ice-cold Cerveza Negra.

SAUTÉED fiddlehead fern  and jicama from Ka Lui in Puerto Princesa
SAUTÉED fiddlehead fern
and jicama from Ka Lui in Puerto Princesa

“Aida’s Chicken, a carinderia in Manokan Country, Iloilo City, for authentic chicken inasal. Tony shall eat with his hands pechopak and paa dipped in a combination of sukang sinamak, soy sauce, calamansi and chopped labuyo. I’ll suggest he eat it with garlic rice drizzled with chicken oil or a siding of steamed fresh oysters and skewers of grilled isol and baticolon, perfect with San Miguel Beer.

“Green Ats Bulalohan, a 24-hour restaurant on Aguinaldo Highway in Tagaytay overlooking Taal Lake, famous for special nilagang bulalo with utak, crispy fried tawilis and sizzling chop suey, paired with fresh buko juice.

“More lechon! He should try Pepita’s Kitchen’s lechon stuffed with truffle rice or sisig rice, by chef Dedet de la Fuente, and Rico’s spicy lechon from Cebu.”
—Irene Perez

“Sincerity Fried Chicken in Binondo.” —Cathy Yamsuan

CORN and cheese tempura at Wabi-Sabi
CORN and cheese tempura at Wabi-Sabi

“For down-home cooking, Wooden Spoon’s Sigarilyas sa Gata and Crispy Daing with a side of bagnet with KBL; Mamou’s Kurobota Sinigang; Pinakbet Rice at Benny’s Café in Rustan’s; Kulinarya’s Roast Beef Kare-kare, but only with Via Mare bagoong (because all other resto bagoong is sweet and sticky and crap). Pwede rin sa Dampa—Bourdain likes to get down and dirty. And XO Heritage Bistro’s crispy pata and salpicao.” —Cheche Moral

“Benavides Street in Binondo. I will take him to a hundred-year-old restaurant there called Ma Kong Mami/Masuki. It’s the place where all the Fookien Chinese eat during Sunday mornings for family breakfast. That’s where our family usually eats during special events.” —Jilson Tiu

BELITO’S Vineyard’s “kinilaw na malasuge”
BELITO’S Vineyard’s “kinilaw na malasuge”

“Via Mare’s halo-halo (still one of the best) and bibingka, staples such as Aristocrat’s Chicken Barbecue with extra peanut sauce … (because they charge extra for additional packets)… Gerry’s Grill kare-kare and binagoongan—simple, no frills and just like how my mother used to cook ’em—to hell whether you live tomorrow or not, as long as you’re happy today! Dekada’s twice-cooked adobo and lumpiang palabok, Kanin Club’s Crispy Dinuguan, Sentro’s Sinigang ng Corned Beef.” —Alex Vergara

“Sautéed fiddlehead fern and jicama at Ka Lui in Puerto Princesa is tasty and healthy. The crispy pata (pork trotters) at Livestock in Quezon City is crisp outside, tender inside. Waiters ‘chop’ it up with a saucer. Corn and cheese tempura at Wabi-Sabi, QC, is salty-sweet and strangely addicting.” —Raoul J. Chee Kee

LIVESTOCK’S crispy “pata”
LIVESTOCK’S crispy “pata”

“Manukan Country, Bacolod City. Inasal and talaba. In Manila, the Kalabasa with Sitaw and Dilis at Sarsa, the Kamote Mash at Café Batwan, and the Binukadkad na PlaPla with Balo Balo and My Mom’s Puchero at Abe’s in Serendra. I’d also invite him to my house to eat my mother’s callos. Then I’d get him really drunk and take a ton of selfies, because he’s really funny. Take him to Batanes to get drunk on palek (rice wine)! I suggest also, since he’s done Jollibee, serve him Max’s and ask him which is the better bird.” —Alya Honasan

“Mesa’s appetizers of tinapa rolls and hito flakes; Recipes’ gising-gising; Kanin Club’s crispy liempo strips and sinigang rice; Wooden Spoon’s stuffed pechay and Tostadong Adobo.” —Gibbs Cadiz

“I believe chef Bourdain should be entertained where he can truly experience the essence of the Philippines, not just through the flavors of our cuisine but through our culture, the charm of our natural landscape and, most especially, the warmth of our hospitality.

DEKADA’S twice-cooked “adobo”
DEKADA’S twice-cooked “adobo”

“Being a world-class chef and traveler, who has perhaps experienced it all, in my opinion, what befits him most, is to be in the company of families who have kept their culinary heritage and traditions alive. Homes where he can have a taste of carefully prepared heirloom recipes.

“Given the privilege to take him for a meal, these are but a few of what I wish him to experience:

“The delicious binalot (rice, slathered with sauce topped with adobo and salted egg, wrapped in banana leaves) found along the roadside or cooked along the shores of Batangas… Local color. Simple fare that is so innately Filipino.

“To experience country life, a trip to Villa Escudero would be nice. To have him wade through the falls while indulging in local offerings will surely prove that it is more fun in the Philippines!

GREEN Ats Bulalohan’s crispy “tawilis”
GREEN Ats Bulalohan’s crispy “tawilis”

“Ilocos is another destination to visit. Not just for the many flavors that are uniquely our own but for the historical sights and the beautiful old mansions.

“There we will offer him a toast with native basi; introduce him to the counterpart of balsamic vinegar—sukang Iloco— and have him sample pinakbet made with what Gov. Imee Marcos tags as ‘boutique vegetables,’ small varieties of eggplants, ampalaya—locally grown produce that make the real Ilocano pinakbet.

“Malagos Garden Resort in Davao is as well experiential. To try are the homegrown milk-fed goats, marinated and roasted —lechong cabrito—before your very eyes. Spear fishing and grilling your catch. Delicious homemade cheeses. Chocolate—grown, processed and finished all in Malagos. Perhaps a side trip to see the majestic Philippine Eagle.

BELITO’S Vineyard’s “paella negra”
BELITO’S Vineyard’s “paella negra”

“A journey back in time is as well lovely. At her spacious kitchen with wood-fired stoves and ovens, I would ask food historian Atching Lillian Borromeo to prepare a meal for us that would consist of favorites such as bringhe, kaldereta, adobong puti, estofado, done traditionally.

“Her tales and trivia would surely perk up the table as will her hands on demonstration of old-time delicacies—San Nicolas cookies, Duck Egg Ensaimadas with Suklati Batirul, to name a few, will surely bring him delight.
“Lastly, halo-halo by the bay, to witness our world-famous sunset.
“These I feel encapsulate (though rather minutely) the beauty and the deliciousness of the Philippines.” —Reggie Aspiras
Where would you take Anthony Bourdain? Tweet us at @INQ_Lifestyle.

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