Simon Porte Jacquemus is a game changing French fashion designer obsessed with exaggerated proportion and striking silhouettes. His geometric proportions of bold shoulders with statement sleeves paired with wide-leg pants reminded me of Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, even Ernest Santiago when he did the jaw-dropping evening wear of Imee Marcos.

 

Yes, the ’80s are back with a vengeance, proving again that fashion is truly cyclical. What goes around, comes around.

 

The designer opened Paris Fashion Week for Spring-Summer 2017. His collection was striking, if a bit confounding with its hugely exaggerated but plain geometric proportions that cut a bold, caricature-like figure.

 

Santons de Provence, the Christmas Nativity scene clay figurines popular in the south of France, served as a key reference. Romantic style used linen, cotton poplin and voile in a somber palette of black, white, cream and a dash of red and polka dots.

 

The models donned straw sun hats, flat with ultrawide brims perched on their heads or fastened around their necks. There was quaint beauty to starched shirts with blown-out puff and peasant sleeves—all of it derived from classic French country style.

 

Jacquemus arranged colors and shapes in a way that tickled the eye. Suddenly, what is old is brand-new again.  —CONTRIBUTED