Paris—Veronique Nichanian knows very well how to create that perfect mix of inconspicuous style and distinguished sophistication for the fabled Hermès man.
Creative director since 1988, Nichanian has been the main force of the brand’s menswear and accessories division. Maintaining the brand’s signature understated luxury can be an enormous limiting factor to a designer, but Nichanian has her way of working around it by bringing to the fore the premium mix of material and craftsmanship that ultimately defines true luxury.
The Fall/Winter 2017 Collection is a play on contrasting volumes merged with contemporary silhouettes, and is a typical showcase of the brand’s expertise in merging tradition and technology.
The piqué-sellier (hand-stitch) method used in bagmaking—a veritable Hermès technique—is seen in certain pullovers. The expert manipulation of leather and fine material is manifested on Blouson type jackets executed in red-wine with cable-effect sheepskin, or a pilot-blue version in baby lamb leather with a large sheepskin stripe or crocodile, all exuding a modern, sporty feel.
The purity of lines is complemented by rich textures, such as a wine-red velvet suit over an extra-fine cashmere turtleneck pullover. Classic pieces such as cashmere cardigans are updated with velour patchworks, or a sheepskin detachable collar on a navy corduroy trench coat.
The slim, narrow trousers offset the volume of the blouson jackets, while cableknit sweaters and turtlenecks bring a touch of modish edginess to the collection.
A key accessory piece is the oversized Haut-a-Courroies bag in felted wool and calfskin; beltbags or “messenger” bags also lend an unexpected touch to the streamlined proportions. —CONTRIBUTED
waist in charcoal wool with blurred pinstripes; scarf in sky blue, navy and absinthe wool and silk with Cent pois print
stitching detail; narrow trousers with highwaist in black cotton gabardine