Anthony Vaccarello, the talented new designer of Saint Laurent, presented his Ready-to-Wear Winter 2018 collection in Paris.
Dresses, gowns, coats and jackets, in polished leather, in black, brown shearling and metallics—what a concept! And so exceptionally executed.
It was ’80s YSL (Yves Saint Laurent), ’90s minimalism, and brand-new-century sexiness, brash and in your face.
There were silk velvet and fur, tailored jackets and shimmering red-carpet-ready outfits, in keeping with the label’s reputation for sleek, chic yet edgy designs pioneered by a succession of designers since the founder Yves Saint Laurent hired Tom Ford when he retired in 2002 and since the five-year reign of Hedi Slimane.
It was as if the YSL trademark designs were rebooted for the granddaughters of the couture clients of Saint Laurent in the ’70s. The mannish pantsuit, Le Smoking jacket or evening tuxedo were present, with peaked shoulders.
The famous beaded velvet sheath, with shiny irises, had a deep decolletage. The peasant off-shoulder blouses, now with giant bell-shape sleeves, looked like deflated air balloons.
It was pure shock-and-roll that Vaccarello gave a brand that was founded in 1961. With a deft hand he fashioned huge ruffles that covered a woman’s body but in micro mini skirts. Paired with slouchy draped boots, it was seductive yet respectable.
There was a dominatrix and sadomasochistic vibe that kept things sizzling in the men’s and women’s collection of over a hundred looks.
There were references to the Rive Gauche ready-to-wear designs of Yves Saint Laurent himself in 1967, which empowered women by putting them in business pantsuits but reborn as seductive uniforms for day or night.
Attentive in the audience was Pierre Bergé, the co-founder of the label and lifelong partner of Yves Saint Laurent. Saint Laurent is now owned by the French luxury and sports brand group Kering.
Yves Saint Laurent must be smiling from heaven, pleased that the codes and archives are reborn with youth and spiritual chic. —CONTRIBUTED
