Of course, this little piece of heaven comes with a pretty hefty price, costing anywhere from $1,000-$2,200 per pound. Its seasonal appearance, as well as the fact it is only found in certain parts of the world, with white truffles almost exclusively harvested in a town called Alba in Piedmont region of Italy, might justify this.
For those who are as in love with the almost-criminal, indescribable taste of this “underground mushroom,” hunted by especially trained pigs and dogs, Samuel Linder, head chef of The Peninsula Hotel’s Old Manila, may very well be your new best friend.
After getting his hands on the highly coveted white truffles from Alba, he has created a degustation menu that he promises will “impart a rich aroma and flavor to even the simplest dishes that can’t be matched by anything else. One whiff and you will be in heaven!”
Decadent meal
The menu starts with Smoked Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with soft poached quail eggs, topped with truffle tapenade and marinated beetroot. The perfectly marbled, thin slices of buttery raw wagyu makes the start of this meal all the more decadent. With each bite, you get a bit of meat, paired with runny egg and a touch of truffle.
The second course is a veal Cheek Agnolotti with rich sage butter sauce, complemented with fresh leeks. This already tastes good on its own, but when fresh white truffles are shaved on the tableside, I have to stop myself from swooning.
The third course is a choice between halibut and duck. I try the Slow-cooked Rougie Duck Breast, with truffle mushroom risotto, Brussels sprouts and cranberry jus with, of course, freshly shaved Alba white truffle. The flavors are gorgeous, with the earthy taste of the truffle blending with the sweetness of cranberry and the gamey flavor of the duck. The well-cooked risotto intensifies the truffle flavor even further.
For dessert—a plate with a disc of Caramelized French Goat’s Cheese, blueberry compote, vanilla-scented crème fraiche, and a drizzle of truffle honey.
Cheese after meals
Linder wants to open Filipino palates to cheese after meals, the way Europeans do. If you think that the goat cheese might be too salty, tangy or will coat your throat too much after a hearty meal, don’t fear. It is actually pretty mild and creamy that I actually ask the chef if it is an actual slice or if he has added anything to it.
The other ingredients adds dynamism to the dish—like having a party in my mouth. A tip: You won’t see this goat cheese on the menu, but if you ask for it, you shall definitely receive, so do yourself a favor and order it.
I leave the table, tummy satisfied, lightheaded from the decadence enjoyed in mid-day.
White Alba Truffles are available at Old Manila, The Peninsula, until supplies last. For reservations, call 8872888 ext 6748 or 6749.