Many of the successful chefs/restaurant owners we’ve met cut their culinary teeth at the kitchens of the defunct Mandarin Oriental Hotel Manila. Their reputations precede them. The coterie of the hotel’s foreign chefs must have trained them well.
One example is Tony Escalante, whose twin restaurants in Tagaytay have earned local and international acclaim.
Now comes chef Ariel Manuel who did not have formal culinary training when he joined the Mandarin. He then shifted to restaurants, the culmination of which is a three-in-one grouping of dining and drinking places serving his loyal clientele that follows him wherever he goes.
Bistro Manuel
2/F, Six Axis Center, 4347 B. Valdez, Poblacion, Makati; tel. 8718566
At the far end of Makati Avenue is Bistro Manuel, an example of contemporary fine dining. True enough, the ambiance is elegant but friendly. The food can be classified as modern cuisine.
Dining area—Combines the artistic inclination of the chef and the exquisite presentation of his food. There is a trio of Arturo Luz paintings, plus the beautiful frames of various Spanish fans and an actual fan in the private dining room which sits 16 guests. White tablecloth is used to match the white crockery and the silver flatware. In full view of the diners is the open kitchen with fires burning on the grill.
Kitchen—As the chef is personally on hand, service is fast and efficient.
Staff—They wear the elegant, formal attire of white long-sleeve shirt under a black vest and trousers. They are quick to respond to waves of hand or calls.
Suggested orders—The extensive menu ranges from traditional to awesome, unusual dishes. Ask the chef for recommendations and you’d be served well.
On our visit, the Daily Special starter was Pen Shell Clams, something rare from Bicol. Each shell contained mussel and scallop on a bed of wilted spinach and sea urchin foam.
The sauce was different from the usual, made with juice from the mussel and clams with the Japanese uni which rendered an exotic taste.
The Spinach and Warm Mushroom Salad had smoked bacon and garlic (toasted) vinaigrette.
The Piece de Resistance consisted of three kinds of lamb in one platter, tagged as Lamb and Lamb plus Lamb! Could be overwhelming but not to worry, the slices were manageable.
There was Roast Lamb Rump, Stewed Lamb Breast and unique Lamb Sweetbread with Potato and whipped Labneh Cheese. Practically all were good for sharing.
Stay for at least one dessert, and maybe a bold cup of coffee. Have the Declension, a term with which Manuel described the declining arrangement of the Mango and Mascarpone Cheese with Vanilla Frozen Cream and Dulce de Leche sauce. Fantastic end to a very gourmet meal.
Government and service charges are added to the bill. Senior cards are honored.
RATING – 3 SPOONS
