Filipino master ‘jamon’ carvers share knife-wielding skills | Lifestyle.INQ

OCTOBER 27, 2022

Master “jamon” ibérico carvers Michael and Mark Lopez: “A perfect piece should have a blend of lean meat and fat, the size of a credit card, and paper thin.”

 

I was thrilled to welcome to my home the first-ever Filipino master jamón Iberico carvers, Michael and Mark Lopez.

The brothers walked into my kitchen with their handpicked selection of the highest grade, jamón ibérico de bellota.

Swiftly, they sliced away while lecturing how jamón should be fully enjoyed. “A perfect piece should have a blend of lean meat and fat,” said Michael. “Ideally, it should be approximately the size of a credit card and, of course, paper thin.”

The maestros have witnessed their ham being blown away by the wind many times.

Carving jamón requires masterful knife skills. It takes years of practice to perfect the art. It is quite amusing to watch them slice, as they each have their own unique moves.

Having such an expensive piece of meat in one’s hands requires not only perfect cuts and presentation, but also ensuring that the entire jamón is served.

The Lopez brothers are often hired to carve jamón ibérico, often referred to as the Beluga caviar of hams.

Their craft has blessed them beyond their imagination.

Rubbing elbows

Since 2013, they have been carving jamón at the Union of European Football Associations Champions League. On various occasions, they have worked alongside culinary celebrity chefs Pedro Subijana, Jose Ramon Andres, Juan Mari Arzak, Elena Arzak, Joan Roca, Jordi Cruz and Don Armando Scannone. Even Penelope Cruz delighted herself with jamón carved by Michael and Mark at a Lancôme shoot.

Their profession has become their passport to see the world.

Mark recounted how one businessman flew them to Venezuela for his wife’s party, where Julio Iglesias was one of the guests.

The brothers moved to Spain in the ’90s to be with their parents and worked as waiters at the Meson Cinco Jotas (now Restaurante Cinco Jotas) in Madrid.

The restaurant’s maestro cortador de jamón, Pedro Seco, saw Michael’s potential. He patiently trained him and assigned him to carve in his stead. He was later moved to another restaurant where he became a maestro cortador in 2000.

In 2002, Mark trained under Antonio Vara and, like his brother, was assigned to his own branch.

Cinco Jotas sent the brothers to their headquarters in Jabugo to further polish their skills. During their stint, they carved ham all day and were taught to understand the process that goes into making jamón ibérico.

Both received their maestro cortador certificate—Michael in 2003, and Mark in 2007.

In 2008, the leading Spanish knife manufacturer, Arcos, signed them as brand ambassadors.

Michael and Mark feel it’s time for them to share the art of appreciating jamón with their fellow Filipinos.

Their venture Maestro Cortador Filipino (MCF) is now open for business.

“You can hire us just to carve, you can buy the jamón from us, or you can do both,” said Michael.

Another service MCF provides is jamón carving. The thinly sliced ham is vacuum sealed in small packs to be eaten at your convenience. They provide the same service for restaurants, too.

You can also purchase Arcos jamón carving knives, stands and other accessories through MCF.

Selection

Jamón ibérico de bellota (black label): 100-percent ibérico, acorn-fed, bone-in Pata Negra, minimum 36 months curing, denomination of origin, Jabugo.

Taste profile—intense, nutty flavor, sweet and salty like buttered almond, and lingers in the mouth.

Jamón ibérico de cebo (white label): 75-percent ibérico, grain-fed, bone-in, minimum 24 months curing, denomination of origin, Guijuelo.

Jamón serrano reserva, bone-in, minimum 15 months curing, protected geographical indication, Trévelez.

The quality of the jamón is based on the breed and origin of the pig—what they’re fed, how they’re raised, the curing affect the end product.

A ham leg that weighs 7 to 8 kg is good for a maximum of 120 persons.

To store, keep the leg in a cool, dry place with a temperature of 19°C-21°C. Do not put it in the refrigerator or freezer. Jamón needs to breathe, so do not wrap in plastic.

The Lopez brothers advocate consuming sliced ham as soon as possible because it can dry out and change color.

 

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