It’s only the second month of the year and Milan men’s wear or Pitti Uomo is showing what the “new gentleman ” will be wearing for Winter 2013. After decades of jeans and sneakers, the world-class and street-smart sartorial offerings are edging sportswear from its premium priority to the backwoods of casual Friday and weekend wear.
Judging from the collections of Jill Sander, Salvatorre Ferragamo, Gucci, Burberry Proscum and Prada (the best collections) the corporate man will conquer boardroom battles in tailored suits. Clean, precise and slim, they are in gray, spiced up with accessories in curry, molasses, lavender and electric blue.
The suits look spartan but the rich fabrications of vicuna, cashmere and even brocade at Dolce Gabana is the last word in private luxury, the type that only the wearer is wise about. Topping suits instead of overcoats are puffy parkas and high-waisted bomber jackets showing a brand-new silhouette, the best were by Christopher Bailey at Burberry. The oversized wool and leather beret will be the hat to brave next years winter chill.
Astrakan, a controversial fur with its sleek almost hairless surface, joins shaved lamb’s wool as accents. Bright-colored suede gloves are also trendy. Rounded briefcases and clutch bags are the masculine carry-alls.
Pushing men’s wear to its loftiest position, Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen is offering made-to-order suits in partnership with Huntsman of Saville Row in London. Now men are finally toe to heel with women’s haute couture. Asked who would wear such expensive tailored menswear, Burton replied,” The very, very rich.”