Chitose Abe, the designer behind Sacai, will never leave her brand of experimentation. It was evident in her triumphant return to Paris for fall/winter 2022. Abe hasn’t been to the fashion capital in two years. The comeback was nothing short of fantastic, if not one of my favorite shows.
In the restraint, Abe shows off her mastery over the unconventional. She perhaps gleaned something when she started as a pattern cutter at Comme Des Garcons. For fall/winter 2022, we see tank tops transformed into gowns, blazers adopted a bra top, and skirts with slits in the front and at the back, folded in a way to almost mimic a pair of pants.
The collection is a slight deviation from Sacai’s signature of splicing two pieces to create a greater whole. Here, Abe shows off that she knows the technicalities to make something distinct out of the every day. After all, how many ways can you do something different with the regular tank top? And to debut it for a fall/winter collection instead of making it part of the spring/summer fare? Now that’s how you know that the brand only plays by their rules.
Abe shares to Vogue, “I really wanted to make clothing very impeccably.” Indeed, she delivered because playing with the usual silhouette isn’t just about being free but understanding the basics profoundly and how you can subvert them.
Sacai is available at Homme et Femme