I had never seen such clear, blue skies. I heard the water stays warm even in winter.
But I really wouldn’t know. The most I’d felt of the Indian Ocean ever since I set foot in KwaZulu-Natal province, South Africa, was the continuous spray of salty water that stung my sunburnt cheeks as the dinghy we were riding wove in and out of waves that seemed colossal to me, but were just “pretty okay” for the locals.
Our group was supposed to go cageless shark diving, but the lack of sightings saved us from the dilemma of wanting to experience it yet being thoroughly terrified of the notion at the same time. With such dreadful visibility, we opted for some dolphin watching instead. And Aliwal Shoal did not disappoint.
It didn’t take too long before we spotted our first pod. The dolphins seemed shy at first, descending below the surface as soon as we got too close. But the marine mammals likely figured out that we meant them no harm and, eventually, more and more started swimming comfortably alongside and around us. Sometimes, we were told, there would even be turtles and humpback whales, especially where the sardines liked to gather.
In Amanzimtoti town, Gary’s Horses offers horseback riding to guests. The magnificent yet mellow animals can be ridden around the course near their stable or even along the beach. Meanwhile, in Cato Ridge, Highstakes guests can go quad biking on mildly rough topography or zoom over it via zipline.
In PheZulu Safari Park in the Valley of 1000 Hills between Pietermaritzburg and Durban, we enjoyed a performance in the cultural village, which told the story of an African courtship ritual. The Oyster Box on Umhlanga Beach is a glorious five-star boutique hotel that serves scrumptious dishes as well as a breathtaking nighttime view of its iconic lighthouse.
Game drive
But the highlight of the trip took us to Mkuze Falls Game Lodge, a four- to five-hour drive from the coastal city of Durban. It comprises a network of raised wooden platforms that lead to a lounge, a small shop, an indoor pub and a swimming pool. Each thatched chalet that dots the undulating landscape offers guests luxurious comforts like a large canopy bed, a spacious en suite bathroom, a secluded outdoor shower with heater, a plunge pool and a private deck from which to take in the fantastic view of the mountains and the waterfalls.
With the temperature reaching the low 10s in the evenings, the blazing bonfire at the open dining area was a comforting treat. There at the boma dinner, some of us got our first taste of phutu or traditional South African porridge; venison potjie, which is similar to stew; impala wors; nyala fillet; and chocolate malva pudding, a spongy South African baked dessert that’s served with a cream sauce.
We set out at dawn the next day to explore the Mkuze Falls Private Game Reserve, home to the famed Big 5 and more than 400 species of birds. The expansive property is one of only two private game reserves in the region where lions, leopards, buffaloes, rhinos and elephants can be seen.
We had a bit of a slow start. The reserve seemed empty save for the occasional impala and flitting birds; even the watering hole was devoid of activity. What’s more, the path to the lions’ favorite spot was blocked by a tree felled by an elephant the night before, so we had to turn around.
But after much exploring and maneuvering by our driver Sipho around well-worn paths, we finally saw a mommy rhino and her baby through the brush. By the end of the trip, we were able to spot a gang of buffaloes, some zebras, dark antelopes called nyala, a couple of massive kudus, a sleeping crocodile, a bloat of bathing hippopotamuses and a few fleeing wildebeests.
It was a challenge finding these animals through the thick vegetation. As our guide Ketha Mhkize reminded us: Do not look at the bushes, but through them.
One of the more exciting moments was when our guides stopped the open jeep, having spotted some elephants from afar. We squinted our eyes and scoured the land, to no avail. Then, a movement. The beige bar at the base of the mountain seemed to be advancing. We thought that was it, but our driver hurriedly turned the engine back on and rushed our vehicle at full speed through the hilly terrain.
Soon, we came face-to-face with four enormous elephants that dwarfed the scattered trees, their backs stained beige with dried mud. They ambled along, stopping only briefly to give us curious stares. It was all we could do to keep ourselves from jumping out of the vehicle and running to the gentle-looking giants. We had to remind ourselves that, benign as they seemed, these animals were still essentially wild.
Different kind of wild
Back in Durban, we came face-to-face with a different kind of wild: Every year on July 1, people dress up for Hollywoodbets Durban July, which is never just an international horse racing event that serves as a platform to showcase the country’s thoroughbred. It is also where fashion goes extreme with bold colors, excessive accessories and bombastic silhouettes.
This year’s theme was “Out of this World,” and people really did come in otherworldly costumes to enter competitions for classic racewear for male and female, most striking couple, and exceptional race day hat or fascinator. With the event drawing thousands of people even from nearby provinces, Durban July makes for some exciting people watching and couture ogling.
In the hours leading to our flight out of the city of Durban, our group finally slowed down enough to take a leisurely walk along the beach fronting our hotels.
Every morning that past week, I’d look longingly out the window of my spacious Southern Sun Maharani room to watch the solar glow bloom across the sky over the Indian Ocean. The coast looked enticing, even as frothy waves crashed fiercely against the latte-colored sand along the Golden Mile, a stretch of beach lined with parks, restaurants, shops, street markets and other attractions.
The sand was fine and clean, especially for a beach in the city. Workers could be seen sweeping up sand that had made its way to the walkway, and there’s a board showing information on the water quality, including a beach litter index and the presence of E. coli and enterococcus—indicators of fecal contamination—in the water.
With hardly any rocks in the area, Durban claims to be among the best surfing sites in the world and plays host to international surfing competitions. In fact, some surfers were savoring the rolling waves that morning as we took in the beauty of Durban one last time before making our long way back home.
