It was admiration at first sight in 1973, when young French designer Jean Paul Gaultier met his interpreter, Helena Carratala, a Spaniard who spoke French. Popularly known as Helena, she was then married to publishing scion Xavier “Wahoo” Guerrero, and caught attention with her flaming red hair, shaved eyebrows and funky makeup.
Gaultier was posted at the franchise of Pierre Cardin Manille. He used her as his mannequin who gave feedback on his designs. Seeing her courage and imagination, he advised her to venture into fashion. Before returning to France, he taught her basic draping and how to organize a fashion collection.
In 1974, she launched Azabache with the help of master cutter Flora de Leon, who had worked for couturiers Aureo Alonzo and Ben Farrales, at the Guerrero residence in Wack Wack. Then 23 years old, she debuted with 1930s and ’40s fashion.
Likewise, Azabache blazed a trail by promoting black as a sign of sophistication and not mourning.
“In Spain, black was the dress code for weddings and formals. Women wore a black dress with a paineta and a mantilla,” she said.
Azabache had since evolved into bold, neon colors and draped silhouettes that referenced Asian countries, particularly India.
Upon the invitation of SM, Carratala opened Azabache in 1976. She recalled teetering in high heels, pregnant with her eldest child, Katya, as she put up her signage. Over time, the late taipan Henry Sy would shake his head, wondering how Azabache became successful despite the fact that black dresses were traditionally associated with mourning.
Huge orders
In 1982, she separated from Guerrero and moved to the United States with her master cutter to break into the fashion trade. Life was tough. While Carratala was celebrated for her iconoclastic beauty and savoir faire in the Philippines, she had to fend for herself in New York.
“I had serious issues—no work, no money, no home,” she recalled.
Helena found love with Richard Mander, who worked for pioneering interior decorator and socialite Sister Parish (a.k.a Dorothy Kinnicutt). They were married in 1984. After working for two fashion houses, Carratala pursued her apparel business, but she made the mistake of selling to the huge department stores. These demanded huge orders, but often deferred their payments for three months.
“If you don’t have capital, how can you buy fabrics and pay employees?” said Helena.
When her cutter De Leon was diagnosed with advance stage breast cancer, Helena tearfully sent her back to the Philippines.
In 2004, she visited Manila to see her newborn grandchild, Annika Maculangan. Carratala met up with friends and realized that many Filipinos still adored her. Weary of America, she and Mander decided to settle in the Philippines.
Carratala leased Mangenguey Island, off Palawan, and put up a resort of the same name in 2005. Although the business flourished, it had its challenges, among them the rampant corruption from the local government and a government agency.
“I received death threats from the barangay because I was unwilling to pay off. I wrote the President: Here I am bringing money to the country, but instead I am given obstacles,” she said.
Then there were foreign guests who turned out to be pedophiles, bringing little girls with them. “I threw them out and put them on a banca,” she said.
Quiet life
Supertyphoon “Yolanda” (international name: Haiyan) dealt the coup de grace when it battered the island, and it took time for the resort to recover. Helena finally folded up the business in 2016 after being diagnosed with early stage breast cancer.
Helena and her husband moved to Alabang and eventually Cavite to live close to her youngest daughter, Tanya. She lived a quiet life, entertaining a few friends. When she was diagnosed with dopamine deficiency, she experienced tremors similar to Parkinson’s disease. Through supplements, exercise, the right diet and medical cannabis, Helena has been improving.
“I’m still shaking. Healing is not going to be perfect,” she said.
Feeling revitalized and no longer self-conscious about her condition, Carratala finally celebrated her 72nd birthday with a merienda cena at her residence in Silang. She designed her version of a Maria Clara blouse with exaggerated sleeves. It was executed in her signature black fabric by designer Ivarluski Aseron.
Despite Typhoon “Dodong’s” onslaught, the affair was well-attended by creatives and friends from the fashion industry. Culinary historian and graphic designer Ige Ramos curated and styled the merienda with a mix of Scottish tea fare, Filipino kakanin (sweet delicacies) and Spanish tapas (appetizers).
“I decided not to stay quiet any longer. So what if people see me shake? Muhammad Ali shook while carrying the Olympic torch,” she said. —Contributed