This year is turning out to be quite eventful as the local food scene continues to welcome visiting big-name foreign chefs. Each one of them is selling out every available seat to their events, be it a collaboration or a restaurant takeover, which is proof that diners in the metro are game to shell out money for these one-of-a-kind dining experiences.
Though these events are largely to the customers’ benefit, I wonder just what exactly is the appeal of Manila to these celebrated chefs?
The Coconut Club’s Daniel Sia
Last year, the crew from The Coconut Club in Singapore spent a whole weekend churning out 200 units of their bestselling nasi lemak with fried chicken at The Grid in the Power Plant Mall, Rockwell. Last month, managing partner Daniel Sia found himself doing the same thing, but at a different venue this time.
Held at Cafe Aurora in Makati, The Coconut Club teamed up with Sambar’s Nicco Santos and Quenee Vilar to come up with five sets composed of Peranakan mains and appetizers. Apart from the beloved coconut rice, there was nasi sambar with duck leg confit, accompanied by curry leaf kecap, lap cheong frittata and koshihikari rice, as well as roti jala, laap puri and pisang goreng, which came as jackfruit ice cream on banana fritters.
“Manila is always changing, and each year, we get to see the progress,” says Sia. “We are always made to feel so welcome in Manila and it just makes us feel so touched and truly happy to bring the food over.”
Iru Den’s Javier Low
It was Javier Low’s first time to visit Manila, and after sampling some of what the city had to offer (he enjoyed the sisig and cochinillo of Cirkulo as well as Milkyway’s ginumis and traditional viands), he was energized to show the type of food he makes in his Singapore restaurant at Raffles Makati’s Mireio, alongside Linamnam’s Don Baldosano, Modan’s Jorge Mendez and the hotel’s executive chef Bela Rieck.
On the menu were a starter, main and dessert from each chef. Low prepared some of the night’s stellar dishes, including his signature uni somen wheat noodle; ebi shinjo, oba and yuzu kosho beurre blanc; and black glutinous rice parfait mocha and tuile.
“The hospitality, the people, the locals,” says Low of the things that would make him return for another Manila adventure. “I would definitely come back as I want to explore a lot more of the cuisine; to forage and look at the produce. Hopefully, spend some time exploring restaurants and meeting more chefs.”
Cloudstreet’s Rishi Naleendra
It is not the Sri Lankan chef’s first time to walk our land. Back in 2018, he participated in this writer’s very first Asian Culinary Exchange, where he got the chance to participate in a conference as well as collaborate with Josh Boutwood at the old Helm.
This time around, he did a one-night restaurant takeover at the Penthouse No. 66 in Grand Hyatt Manila, where he served his signatures porcini custard with onion consommé and caviar, red Sicilian prawns with fermented tomato and lemon granita, and roasted quail with shiitake and chestnut.
“I came back the second time because I don’t remember the first time I was here, because you made me drink too much and you got worried,” Rishi says with a grin.
“Even during Cheek by Jowl (his now defunct casual restaurant) time, we already got massive support from the Philippines. We have a lot of customers who come from Manila and they eat and drink well. I think Filipinos have to be the one of the biggest communities that travel the world to eat. You guys are obsessed with the experience of eating.”
Thevar’s Mano Thevar
Much like Naleendra, Mano Thevar of his two Michelin-starred namesake restaurant also took over Grand Hyatt’s stunning rooftop space for a night, serving 50 guests with his current menu in Singapore. Once seats were made available, foodies were quick to snatch them up, producing a sold-out-with-waiting-list outcome.
Mano and his team served a strawberry chaat with chutney, buttermilk and tamarind; Iberico crispy pork with sambal aioli wrapped in betel leaf; Chettinad chicken roti; and wagyu short rib with vindaloo sauce served with king crab curry rice.
“Since my initial trip in 2019, I have noticed a significant increase in the vibrancy of this incredible nation,” he says, one that he can’t deny and is definitely attracted to.
Potong’s Pam Pichaya Soontornyanakij
The most recent of the lot, the Metronome x Potong lunch and dinner collaboration, proved to be one for the books. Aptly named “Her,” the event celebrated the Bangkok restaurant’s accolades, including a Michelin star and a no. 35 ranking in this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
Miko Calo, on the other hand, has continually been proving her worth as among the country’s best, making this tandem quite memorable.
Pam and Miko showcased their culinary chops in dishes such as a build-your-own crab toast where toasted brioche, crab roe emulsion, pepper jam and the crab meat were provided; foie gras au torchon with ginger and pomelo; Iberico presa with lemongrass and eggplant; and the standout dish for me, amadai with citrus squid ink and fermented shrimp veloute.
“The Philippines is a country I used to come to very often,” Pam says. This recent trip was made extra special, as she cooked alongside an inspiring female chef.
Le Du’s ThiTid Tassanakajohn
Chef ThiTid or Tonn of Le Du, proclaimed Asia’s best restaurant of the year, has been traveling all over the globe, spreading not just good food but also the good word about his country’s cuisine. Along his journey, he stopped by the Philippines for a very special celebration with chefs Chele Gonzalez and Jordy Navarra.
In line with their respective restaurants’ 10th anniversary as well as Toyo Eatery’s sustainable accolade, the three combined some of their iconic items to come up with a menu that truly defined the best of the best. Together with Navarra’s bahay kubo dish and Gallery’s beloved bibingka cheesecake were Le Du’s sea bass with cold curry, pork barbecue tartlet, and banana prawn with toasted chili.
“My trip to Manila was awesome,” he says. “I can see some changes in the dining scene. More restaurants and bars coming up. Fun, food and people keep me coming back. And the energy of the city is second to none in Asia.”
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