Better quality of life, affordable cost of living and the year-round pleasant weather are the common reasons for foreigners to take up residency in Spain. But beyond our postcolonial ties, many upper-class Filipinos reside legally for two years to quality for Spanish citizenship, and ultimately, get the convenience of a European Union passport.
Adapting to the new environment has been easy. Our two sources never felt lonely, since they have maintained close ties with Filipino friends and relatives, and they were welcomed by their Spanish friends and neighbors. Now on their second Christmas in Spain, they will be entertaining visiting relatives over the holidays.
Life in the south
Marie Christine “Cheese” Ledesma Ong and her family enjoy the quiet life in Alhaurin El Grande, a town in Malaga, a province in southern Spain. Her husband, Joel, owns a Manila-based recruitment agency for healthcare workers. Their daughters Carolina, 15, and Christiane Monique, 13, attend a school which implements English and Spanish as mediums of instruction.
Ong followed her mother, Carolina Ledesma, who has been living in Spain for 15 years. Pandemic restrictions in the Philippines convinced the Ongs to live overseas.
She has Filipino friends who are settled in Spain, while others shuttle between Europe and the Philippines. “During the pandemic, it became more urgent for me to want to have a second passport,” she says, citing an example of how it takes a longer time for Filipinos to be repatriated from an emergency situation in one country.
Alhaurin El Grande is a picturesque town which reminds Ong of her place in Alfonso, Cavite. Their social calendar is full, as the family plays golf around Malaga or has barbecues with Filipinos who live in the coastal towns.
In the neighboring Malaga City, the local government heralds the start of Christmas season in late November with the daily light shows and video mapping on the cathedral. The portal de belen, the Nativity stable, is the focal point of most Christmas displays. To decorate her home, Ong has purchased a live pine tree at the tienda de jardiniera (garden store). She wound a Christmas wreath using olive branches and hung it above the fireplace.
Spanish noche buena
They are doing the noche buena, a Spanish import to the Philippines, like locals. While the jamon is ubiquitous, the jamon Iberico de bellota is prized for its pedigree. This savory dish is a dry-cured leg of free-range, black Iberian pigs that only eat acorn.
Instead of the usual fruitcake, the turron (almond and honey nougat) marzipan (almond and sugar paste) and polvorones (crumbly and nutty shortbread) are the traditional desserts.
“I’ve tasted many kinds of polvorones like those with olive oil and sesame seeds, with lemon and chocolate,” says Ong.
El Dia de los Reyes, Three Kings Day, is the most anticipated. “Nobody opens gifts on Christmas Day. The exchange of gifts happens on Jan. 6, then school resumes afterward,” says Ong.
Instead of getting presents from Papa Noel, Father Christmas, their children leave their shoes outside for the kings Melchor, Balthazar and Gaspar to put their gifts. They eat Roscón de Reyes (King’s Cake), a giant, fruit-laden donut with a little king and a seed hidden. “The one who gets the slice with the king will buy the cake for the next Three Kings’ Day,” she says.
“Last Christmas, I tried to make lechon de leche (roasted suckling pig) in the oven. It was a fail,” she recalls. She ended up with cordero lechal, roasted milk-fed lamb. Groceries have made noche buena easier by offering ready-to-roast cochinillo (baby suckling pig).
This Christmas, Ong is looking forward to entertaining visiting relatives for noche buena. “It’s always a full house with Pinoy families,” she says.
On Christmas Day, the Ongs will take their guests on a day tour to Ronda, a mountaintop town above the gorge, with a stone bridge that overlooks stunning panoramas. “I’m making reservations for an olive oil tour and jamon tasting there,” she says.
The Ongs savor the cool weather and laid-back life in the South. On the other hand, the Kaufmans are entranced by the Christmas magic in the Spain’s capital.
Cosmopolitan Madrid
David and Mai Kaufman moved to Madrid to provide global education for their daughters Alexa and Calista.
“Having home schooled Alexa and Calista for over 11 years, we wanted them to learn in a safe and diverse setting with friends from different nations. Spain, with its rich culture, felt like the perfect training ground for them to develop not just academically but also in life and social skills. We aimed to prepare Alexa and Calista to become responsible, open-minded, well-rounded, global adults in the future,” says Mai.
Alexa Isobel, 15, continues to develop her classical soprano voice. Calista Simone, 11, is exploring her creativity as an artist. A supplier of natural stone, David manages his business in Manila from Madrid while he enjoys painting and exploring the architecture in Spain and sharing his discoveries. Mai has been learning Spanish and sharpening her cooking skills. The family mixes with different nationalities.
“Living in Madrid has been a beautiful adventure for our family. Each day brings new experiences and new opportunities for growth. Its diverse culture, breathtaking architecture and warm-hearted people have made the adjustment seamless,” Mai says.
Christmas 2023 in Spain is more dazzling, as the capital is dotted with fully decked-out trees, light shows, Christmas lighting displays, Christmas markets, Nativity vignettes, shows and activities for children in the squares.
“It’s a season of togetherness so quality time, ice skating with the girls, exploring Christmas markets, movie marathons, hot chocolate nights, watching a Christmas concert, are all on the agenda, and of course, gift opening! We’re bringing a touch of home to Madrid by preparing both Spanish and Filipino favorites,” says Mai.
Their home is decked with wreaths and lots of soy candles for an intimate ambiance. This year’s Christmas spread will have local winter delicacies of roasted sweet potatoes and chestnuts, tapas such as gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimps), chistorra (semicured sausage), calamares (squid), boquerones (vinegared anchovies), grilled and garlic-stuffed mushrooms, olives and jamon Iberico with cheeses. After the soup and salad come the paella mixta (meat and seafood paella), cochinillo, callos (ox tripe stew) and steak. The meal is capped off with halo-halo, mais con yelo, maja blanca and sapin-sapin.
“This Christmas is extra special for us. Back in Manila, when my parents were still around, we used to celebrate with family reunions. This year, with my in-laws flying in from the United Kingdom, we’re creating new traditions in Madrid,” she says. —Contributed