Using these essential techniques to cycle in the wind isn’t so much of a drag
Photo by Jacek Dylag/Unsplash
Let’s talk about resistance. There are three things stopping you from being as fast and frictionless as you possibly can: tire drag, bearing drag, and aerodynamic drag.
The first two, which account for around 15 percent of your overall resistance, come down to equipment choices and routine maintenance. The last is something you manage with riding technique and smarts.
They say that beyond 30 kilometers per hour, more than 50 percent of your energy is spent overcoming aerodynamic drag. And this worsens with the wind. Wind can increase drag up to twice or even thrice as much. And sidewinds can really throw off your handling.
Although I advocate that one should “eat the wind” to get stronger during training, there are times, such as on race day or on those semi-competitive rides, that you simply want to cheat it. Here’s how to efficiently cycle with the wind:
Choose the right equipment
I’ve written about what choices can give you the most aerodynamic gains, but let’s look at the obvious here. While a nice set of deep, aerodynamic wheels and a long tail helmet may give you free speed in a straight line, they become massive sails that propel you sidewards (not forward) when there’s a crosswind.
Choose the right tools for the course and conditions. An aero but not so deep wheelset, and a helmet with a rounded rear section may be more appropriate for those windy days.
Granted, new wheel and frame technology claim they’re still fast at certain yaw angles (the direction the wind hits your bike), but there’s no getting around physics. Professional cyclist Geraint Thomas of Team Sky got blown off the road and into the ditch at Ghent-Whevelgem in 2015 due to strong winds. Imagine if that were a ravine. The wind spares no one. When in doubt, choose the equipment with the lower profile. It may just save your life.
Manage your position
When the wind hits, and it can hit hard, the biggest area for it to slam into is your body. Thankfully, that’s also the one thing you can manage after you’ve chosen good wind-appropriate equipment.
Getting low and aerodynamic for efficient forward propulsion also works for getting a low profile for sidewind gusts. If on drop bars, get in the drops, bend your elbows and lower your torso. Don’t grab your hoods and turn your body into a sail (unless you mean to like using air resistance to slow down during a descent).
I don’t get to ride aerobars a lot these days, but I would say, when the wind gets strong enough, control and safety take precedence over speed. If you’re wobbling and not able to keep a straight line, get off your aero tuck and grab something wider to stabilize.
Use other riders
I mean, share the wind. If possible, such as on a group ride and in mass-start cycle events and races, draft. Get behind or beside other riders to shield yourself from the wind. In a pack or training ride, don’t always be in front. Learn how to form echelons and proper pacelines so that everyone gets some rest and respite from riding in front and taking on all the wind.
If possible, such as on a group ride and in mass-start cycle events and races, draft. Get behind or beside other riders to shield yourself from the wind
Also, learn how to draft properly. A distance of six to 12 inches in between your front wheel and the rear wheel of the rider in front of you is possible and regularly maintained in pelotons all over the world. Sadly, most groups I’ve ridden with have riders too twitchy and undisciplined to maintain a good paceline. It’s an invaluable skill for cyclists.