The tacos at Compañeros Poblacion are powered by the experience of Idalia’s Kevin David and a lawyer couple’s first foray into food
Welcome to another taco place in Poblacion that could very well be your next pre- or post-game spot. Like most new restaurants springing forth from out of the blue, there’s a lot to unpack at the two-level taqueria/carinderia at Matheus Building.
Called Compañeros: Taqueria x Carinderia, the self-supported and compact taqueria overlooking General Luna Street has an interesting foundation. First, the owners behind it, Philip Gonda and Regine Estillore-Gonda, are full-time lawyers with a serious devotion to Mexican tacos and Filipino street food. They initially wanted a small food cart for their startup but eventually—courageously—dove headfirst into opening a fast casual taqueria.
Perhaps this is one such telling factor of their lawyer qualities they seem to have applied to foodservice, which include composure, judgment, analytical skills, and creativity.
“Since I’m in litigation, the creativity in cross-examining a witness, I was able to apply it [here in conceptualizing the restaurant],” says Philip matter-of-factly, adding that they do everything themselves like manning the register. Regine meanwhile, whose work is more behind the scenes and is “the writing kind of lawyer,” manages the operations and “organizational” aspect of the business. “That’s more my thing.”
Admittedly rookies in the field of foodservice, the couple however have bona fide superstars in their kitchen—most notable of which is chef consultant Kevin David who has plenty of bankable restaurant experience in New York City and San Francisco and who is also establishing himself in Manila with his private dining concept Idalia Manila.
“Telling stories with your food is very crucial,” he told us in a previous interview.
And in this latest pairing of passion and experience resulting from months of research, brainstorming, and food testing, Compañeros is telling a chef-driven story with tacos inspired by Mexican taquerias, New York and California food trucks, and Filipino street food that are well-suited to the environment they are in. They explore flavors and play with them particularly well without the need for bombast or pretense.
The taco list is succinct: an al pastor Filipino pork barbecue, beef birria, tapa carne asada (made with Australian ribeye), pork sisig, and a seasonal fish priced between P275 to P660. But you could also get the P980 taco flight with three signature salsas if your taste buds fancy it. Or, savor them as rice bowls instead.
Looking at the menu, the tacos feed off each other gracefully and appeal to numerous preferences and appetites, and practically introduces their legitimate attempt at putting Filipino cuisine at the forefront of global flavors—in taco format.
Every day is Taco Tuesday at Compañeros
So how does this love letter to Filipino cuisine, mothers and lolas, carinderia owners and street food vendors read? It’s homage done right.
The tacos are hefty (for me, at least) with your chosen protein either sitting on the corn tortilla or folded in on itself. One of my personal favorites, the Compañeros Quesabirria, comes enclosed in a cheese-crusted corn tortilla and generously filled with an original beef birria recipe that gives it a firm bite. The slight heat makes it equally satisfying, too.
But it’s the seasonal crispy fish taco that makes the most impact, thanks to their use of catfish (on the night I tried it) and a good mix of hard and soft flavors from the mango ensalada and pico de Gallo. Creamy and crunchy and, as expected, a little bit messy to eat, it’s an attention-grabbing taco that takes you on a journey of the sea and the earth.
Elsewhere, the OG Pork Sisig taco is fueled by crunch while the Tapa Carne Asada features an Australian ribeye for carnivorous appetites.
The al pastor Filipino pork barbecue is an enjoyable and smoky nod to a street food classic with the marinated pork slow-roasted on a trompo (vertical grill). The grilled pineapples and pinakurat aioli inspired by the local sawsawan complete the sweet-savory-spicy spin.
But don’t overlook the entradas too, particularly the chilaquiles with longgarizo (an amalgamation of spicy garlic longganisa and chorizo), which sees the dish build on the premise of “compañero”: sharing food with your friends.
With a name that nods to their profession and a role in drawing customers into a hole in the wall for comforting affairs, the team behind Compañeros carefully crafts and conveys an identity that pays homage to a beloved dish that still feels assuredly their own.