From Mandaluyong to Milan in a minute? Margarita Forés seems to have mastered bending space and time at Lusso’s The Podium location
The first thing that comes to mind whenever I step inside a Lusso restaurant is “gilded glamour.” Not really because it embodies the excessive grandeur of the 2022 Met Gala dress code but more so for the charming signatures that Margarita Forés have imprinted wherever she sets up shop in Manila.
Her newest Lusso outpost sees the celebrated chef making a brilliant pitch to transport guests from Mandaluyong to Milan with the help of longtime collaborators architect Jorge Yulo and interior designer Mark Wilson, whose joint efforts have yielded a clear demonstration of the emotional relationship between food and design.
“I’m thrilled that Lusso at The Podium embodies my truest intention for the brand,” says Forés. “This new location signifies a clear evolution from the original Lusso in Greenbelt. With a beautiful two-floor corner space and a much larger kitchen, I’m confident we’ll not only welcome new diners but also breathe fresh life into the brand as a whole.”
The two-level restaurant is anchored by a shapely staircase that doesn’t just slither up the second level but also frames a massive textured glass chandelier emitting a faint warm glow from within that Margarita Forés herself bought in Milan
The two-level restaurant is anchored by a shapely staircase that doesn’t just slither up the second level but also frames a massive textured glass chandelier emitting a faint warm glow from within that Forés herself bought in Milan. That isn’t a surprise by now given that the chef has always put bits and pieces of herself in her restaurants—case in point is Grace Park Gateway’s rustic powder room filled with travel memorabilia.
Keeping a luxe space this personal is key to making any restaurant grounded and relatable. There is also plenty of dark wood throughout that contrasts with the dominantly white, marble, and gold hues as well as comfortable chairs and couches that strategically follow the restaurant footprint to accommodate up to 64 persons.
The floor plan creates a coherent flow to a cluster of spaces meant for various purposes
The ground level feels open but not scarily vast. The floor plan creates a coherent flow to a cluster of spaces meant for various purposes. Seen from the entrance are a receiving area where the attentive staff patiently wait and anticipate your needs, more private seating areas tucked neatly in the corners (an advantage of its J. Vargas Avenue corner spot), and a cozy bar just behind the staircase.
To the right is a selection of wines on full display inside a glass cabinet lining the path towards the majestic powder room. Similar to the Balmori Suites lavatory, this one is also designed with black marble and brass finishes but with a distinctly noticeable “lightning” streak on the wall. The effect is quite dramatic.
“I want guests to feel transported. I want this to be a short trip to Milano for them,” says Margarita Forés. Now that’s a climactic call to adventure
As are Lusso’s takes on playful comfort food from a European and Filipino perspective. Sample the beautiful bite-sized barquillos filled with chive mousse and prosciutto or the trio of delectable deviled eggs before tucking into a fresh spinach pasta in truffle mushroom cream, a seafood linguine, a lovely pan-seared salmon, and a succulent lamb shank ossobucco. To finish, there’s a hefty tiramisu croccante and a hazelnut, walnut, and pecan tart that more than satisfy hunger pangs during casual lunches, business meetings, or intimate dinners.
This Lusso expansion from Forés is both surprising and expected. Cultivating restaurants and food brands is a lifelong commitment, after all. Since its wide-eyed arrival in 2009 in Greenbelt, one of Asia’s best chefs has shown that she keeps getting better the more she looks forward to the future instead of basking in nostalgia. And while Lusso largely retains its concept at its new The Podium location, it’s one of her best works to date.
Since its wide-eyed arrival in 2009 in Greenbelt, one of Asia’s best chefs has shown that she keeps getting better the more she looks forward to the future instead of basking in nostalgia
Forés’ Lusso may be Euro-focused but it also runs parallel to the Japanese concept of “kaizen”—which simply “encourages continuous improvement at all levels.” By constructing a new Lusso in a new mall setting persisting with familiarity and transformation, we’re left forming together new food memories in a space designed for many experiential possibilities.
“I want guests to feel transported. I want this to be a short trip to Milano for them,” says Forés. Now that’s a climactic call to adventure.