Every spring, the Swiss city of Geneva becomes the heartbeat of haute horlogerie, as the Watches and Wonders 2025 fair sets the future of fine watchmaking. This year’s edition gathered 60 of the world’s most prestigious watch brands under one roof, offering a full sensory experience that went beyond the watches.
Hosted at the Palexpo convention center through the first week of April, the seven days were packed with product presentations, hands-on workshops, and encounters with watchmakers, artisans, and industry experts. As always, each booth was designed as a tribute to each brand’s heritage and savoir-faire, drawing in collectors, curious newcomers, and the next generation of enthusiasts alike.
A major highlight of the week was the ‘In The City’ evening on April 3, where Geneva’s watch boutiques stayed open late into the night, accompanied by a live concert from French electro duo Bon Entendeur on the Quai Général-Guisan.
Cyrille Vigneron, president of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation, said, “Everyone should be able to experience something unique. Watches and Wonders Geneva is all about contact and emotion, and we are committed to fostering this.”
But beyond the spectacle, Watches and Wonders 2025 was a statement of intent. Watch brands came not just to exhibit but also to inspire, showing a trend of growing interest in sustainability and surging demand for authenticity in response to changing consumer habits.
From Rolex’s uber-controversial Land-Dweller to Tudor’s fan favorite Black Bay as well as Vacheron Constantin’s mind-bending Ultra Grand Complication, the show offered a watch for every kind of horology enthusiast.
Here are some of the most significant releases from this year’s event that sparked conversations and, in some cases, already have months-long waitlists.
TAG Heuer
Formula 1 Solargraph
With TAG Heuer returning as this year’s timekeeper for Formula 1 comes a timely retro reintroduction of its Formula 1 series with the Solargraph at Watches and Wonders 2025.
These models feature a refined 38mm case size and are powered by the TH50-00 movement, a solar-powered quartz caliber that harnesses light through dial-integrated cells. A mere two minutes of sunlight provides enough energy for a full day, while a full charge sustains the watch for up to 10 months.
The collection offers a variety of color schemes, including black and white, deep blue, and bold red, with limited editions inspired by the vibrant hues of the original 1986 collection.
Zenith
G.F.J Calibre 135
Zenith unveils the G.F.J Calibre 135, a tribute to its rich chronometric legacy. The watch houses the historically significant Calibre 135 movement, renowned for its precision in observatory competitions.
With its 38mm platinum case, the G.F.J features a minimalist dial that highlights the movement’s craftsmanship, appealing to connoisseurs of horological history.
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Grand Seiko
Evolution 9 SLGB003
Grand Seiko introduces the hand-wound Caliber 9SA4 in the new SLGB003, a high-beat mechanical marvel with 80 hours of power reserve and refined finishing throughout. The movement is designed not just for accuracy but also for a tactile winding experience that adds to the daily pleasure of wearing it.
The watch comes in a 38.6mm Ever-Brilliant Steel case with a deep blue sunray dial, sharp hands and indexes, and the brand’s signature Zaratsu polishing. New for this release is a micro-adjustable clasp on the steel bracelet, offering enhanced comfort and fit.
Nomos
Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
Nomos Glashütte expands its Club Sport line at Watches and Wonders 2025 with the introduction of a Worldtimer model. This watch features a 40mm stainless steel case and a streamlined dial displaying 24 time zones.
The watch is powered by the DUW 5201 automatic movement, known for its precision and reliability. With its sporty design and practical functionality, the Club Sport Worldtimer caters to globetrotters seeking a versatile companion.
Oris
Big Crown Pointer Date
Oris continues to celebrate its heritage with the latest iteration of the Big Crown Pointer Date. The updated watch features a 40mm stainless steel case, a domed sapphire crystal, and the signature pointer date function.
New for this year are the various pastel dial colors and movement choices from the 41-hour power reserve Sellita base to the impressive five-day power reserve in-house Calibre 403.
IWC
Ingenieur with New Colors and Sizes
IWC builds on the momentum of last year’s Ingenieur revival with new dial colors and the addition of a lightweight titanium case at Watches and Wonders 2025, offering a fresh take on the classic Genta-designed sports watch. The case retains its 40mm diameter, integrated bracelet, and five visible bezel screws, now offered in both stainless steel and grade 5 titanium, the latter providing reduced weight and enhanced durability.
Inside, the watch runs on IWC’s in-house Caliber 32111, delivering a strong 120-hour power reserve and solid magnetic resistance, thanks to a protective soft iron inner cage. It’s water-resistant up to 100 meters and now includes an improved butterfly clasp with micro-adjustment, allowing for a better on-the-fly fit.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre
Reverso Tribute Monoface Gold Milanese
Jaeger-LeCoultre pays homage to its iconic Reverso design with the Tribute Monoface Gold Milanese. This elegant timepiece features a rose gold case paired with a finely woven Milanese bracelet, offering a seamless blend of classic and contemporary styles.
This release is one of several new Reverso models introduced this year, as JLC places the icon front and center in 2025. The novelties span a wide spectrum—from subtle dial updates on core references to new complications and high-end executions in precious metals, highlighting the versatility and continued evolution of the Reverso line.
Panerai
Luminor Marina 2025
Panerai updates one of the mainstays in its collection, the Luminor Marina. The 44mm case is retained together with the signature crown-protecting bridge.
The watch comes equipped with a set of updates including the new P.980 automatic movement, which keeps power reserve at three days, a new bracelet and quick release system, upgraded 500m water resistance, and enhanced Grade X2 SuperLuminova.
Cartier
Privé Tank a Guichets
Cartier continues its deep dive into heritage reissues with the latest addition to its exclusive Privé collection: the return of the Tank à Guichets. First introduced in 1928, this avant-garde design is one of Cartier’s most unconventional creations.
For 2025, it returns in platinum with a sleek, pared-down aesthetic. Instead of hands and a dial, the time is revealed through two small jumping hour and minute apertures, located at 12 and 6 o’clock respectively, preserving the charm of the mechanical “digital” format.
The watch is powered by the hand-wound Caliber 9629 MC, developed specifically for this complication, and housed in a clean, brushed platinum case. The solid platinum dial carries no ornamentation apart from Cartier’s discreet signature and the two display windows, reinforcing its minimalist yet striking identity. The Tank a Guichets will be a limited release with only 100 pieces produced.
A. Lange & Sohne
1815 in 34mm
Lange & Sohne introduces a more compact version of its classic 1815 model with a new 34mm case size. Available in both pink and white gold, this iteration maintains the brand’s signature design elements, including refined Arabic numerals and a sleek dial.
The watch houses a newly developed movement that enhances precision and durability, catering to those who prefer a more understated wrist presence.
Odysseus in Honeygold
Expanding the Odysseus line, A. Lange & Sohne presents the model in its proprietary Honeygold alloy. The 40.5mm case features a rich brown dial with a multi-layered texture, complemented by a solid Honeygold bracelet.
The watch is powered by the L155.1 Datomatic movement, offering a 50-hour power reserve. Notable features include the brand’s signature outsize date and day-of-week displays as well as a fine-adjustment mechanism integrated into the bracelet clasp for enhanced comfort.
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Vacheron Constantin
Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication
To mark its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch in its history—and in watchmaking at large. Housed in a 45mm white gold case, this horological milestone features 41 complications, including civil and sidereal time, a perpetual calendar, tide levels, a celestial chart, and a Westminster chime minute repeater.
Powered by the newly developed Caliber 3655 with over 1,500 components, the Solaria took eight years to develop and is protected by 13 patents. It’s a mechanical cosmos on the wrist—equal parts art, science, and legacy.
Rolex
Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller
In a bold, surprising move, Rolex unveiled the Land-Dweller, arguably among the most polarizing releases of the year with its unusual name (Aren’t we all land-dwellers?).
Available in 36mm and 40mm sizes, the Land-Dweller draws its design inspiration from the Oysterquartz and 1530 references of old featuring an integrated bracelet. Powered by the new Caliber 7135, it has a high-beat movement and new patented Dynapulse escapement.
Perpetual 1908 with Settimo Bracelet
Rolex introduced its 1908 model in 2023, and this year they have outfitted it with a new seven-link “Settimo” bracelet.
The good-looking watch maintains the same gold case, fluted and domed bezel, and a choice of white or black dials with fine textures. Inside ticks the Caliber 7140, developed specifically for this configuration, offering a 66-hour power reserve and COSC-certified precision.
Tudor
Black Bay 58 Burgundy
Tudor’s iconic Black Bay 58 returns with a striking burgundy dial and bezel, a color scheme inspired by a 1990s prototype that never reached production as well as the first 2010 Black Bay, which relaunched the brand in certain markets.
Maintaining its 39mm case, this iteration introduces the METAS Master Chronometer certification for the first time, ensuring superior precision and anti-magnetic properties. Collectors can choose from a five-link bracelet, three-link rivet-style bracelet, or a rubber strap, all equipped with Tudor’s T-Fit clasp for rapid length adjustment.
Black Bay Pro with Opaline Dial
The Black Bay Pro line expands with a refined opaline dial variant, offering a crisp contrast against black-outlined ceramic hour markers and hands, which bears a resemblance to the “polar” dial Explorer II. This new dial option is paired with the same 39mm case and fixed steel bezel of the original Black Bay Pro from 2022.
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Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 2025
In celebration of its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet unveiled an update to its iconic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. This release introduces the new Caliber 7138, a self-winding perpetual calendar movement that marks a significant advancement in both function and user experience.
The Caliber 7138 eliminates the need for traditional case-side correctors, allowing all calendar functions to be adjusted solely through the crown. This innovation simplifies the user interface, making the perpetual calendar more accessible and intuitive.
Patek Philippe
Cubitus 40mm
Patek Philippe updates the Cubitus with a smaller variant, which they will sell alongside the existing 45mm version, characterized by a rounded square case and horizontally embossed dial. Crafted in platinum, the Cubitus 40mm features a subtly brushed case finish, stepped flanks, and a minimalist dial layout that draws attention to its balance and negative space. Inside is the Caliber 30-255 PS, a manually wound movement known for its slim profile and strong performance.
Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001
Patek Philippe expands its signature Calatrava line with a new white gold variant that leans into refined minimalism. The case remains a classic 39mm, but the execution is distinctly modern—clean lines, slender lugs, and a very pretty salmon dial. Inside, the watch houses the Caliber 30-255 PS, a manually wound movement that combines traditional finishing with contemporary architecture. The small seconds subdial at six o’clock anchors the layout without disrupting its balance.
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These releases from Watches and Wonders 2025 not only highlight the watch industry’s commitment to design excellence and innovation but also reflect the keen awareness of evolving consumer preferences in tune with technological advancements.
All in all, the future of horology looks bright.