Surfer memoir wins best American book prize
The New York Review of Books called it “an utterly convincing study in the joy of treating seriously an unserious subject.”
The New York Review of Books called it “an utterly convincing study in the joy of treating seriously an unserious subject.”
Mick Fanning sat up on a high stool, straight backed and good humored, recounting the story he will be telling for the rest of his days, about how he fought off a shark with his bare hands during a surfing competition in South Africa.
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