Bistro Remedios opened in 1984 at the corner of Remedios and Adriatico Streets, the third of Larry Cruz’s bistros and the fifth of the LJC Group’s growing chain of restaurants.

Cruz acquired the lease to the corner property: a two-story mid-20th-century ilustrado home formerly occupied by the flamboyant genius of style, Ernest Santiago. Santiago had his atelier on the upper floor and his Zee Zee Bar on the ground floor.

Originally known as Ang Bistro Sa Remedios, it was the purveyor of traditional Kapampangan cuisine, heirloom recipes from the Cruz family.

It didn’t take long before young professionals, called “yuppies” then, made it their regular stop for lunch or dinner. Word spread quickly and soon celebrities, fashion designers, foreign correspondents, pundits and politicians delighted in ordering the signature dishes like Betute, Bringhe and Bopis.

Those were the days when no one else, except perhaps Everybody’s Café in San Fernando, Pampanga, served authentic Kapampangan dishes.

Ang Bistro sa Remedios, with a sense of regional pride and flair, served dishes in a setting so inspiring and conducive to dining and conversation. Small and cozy, it had a service bar at the center that was a replica of a banggerahan (the vernacular for the kitchen section of a Filipino home where dishes and utensils are left on a rack to air and dry). The banggerahan gained understated elegance in its new place.

Such touches and details became the hallmark of other restaurants that Cruz opened over the years. He believed that creating ambiance was always part of a good dining experience.

This was the place where one could eat Bamboo Rice, a flavorful version of mountain rice combined with shrimps, chicken, wood ear mushrooms and bamboo shoots steamed in bamboo; Binukadkad na Crispy Pla Pla, fried fish cut butterfly-style and served with balo-balo (fermented shrimp) and fresh mustard leaves; Gule Magalang, stewed farm-fresh vegetables from Cruz’s hometown; Paco Fern and Tomato Salad, a crunchy, refreshing mix of young rainforest fern, tomato and salted egg drizzled with a light salad dressing; Crispy Tadyang “D Original,” marinated beef ribs deep-fried to a delicious crispiness; and Knockout Knuckles, a whole leg of pork deep-fried in garlic and chili, cited by noted food writer Madhur Jaffrey in her book, “Far Eastern Cookery,” as the best she’s ever had.

For adventurous eaters, there were two Kapampangan specialties to try: Betute (stuffed and fried river frogs) and the seasonal Crispy Spiced Camaru, rice field crickets sautéed in tomatoes and onions.

Foreigners who wanted to experience authentic Filipino dishes weren’t its only loyal patrons; locals also brought balikbayan family and friends to get their Pinoy food fix. Even the late king of comedy, Dolphy, went there so many times that his go-to dish, Adobong Palos, was renamed in his honor.

“This is my favorite of the fast-expanding chain of Larry Cruz’s restaurants,” once declared the celebrated food writer Doreen Fernandez in her column in the Philippine Daily Inquirer.

She wrote: “The Kapampangan food is well-chosen as being both representative of the region and compatible with alien palates; it is cooked with authenticity and served with elegance;

the quality has been consistent in spite of success, expansion and the temptation of media hype; and the pleasant ambiance is well in tune with the concept of the restaurant.”

Thirty years later, and even with the influx of dining destinations and variety of cuisines, Bistro Remedios continues to be relevant to its patrons and the times. Relocated since 1998 to its present location on Adriatico Street, just steps away from Remedios Circle, the restaurant is accredited with the Department of Tourism (DOT), making it one of the recommended places for foreign guests to dine.

For its ongoing “It’s More Fun in the Philippines” campaign, the DOT also chose Bistro Remedios as a venue for its restaurant scene.

“Our hope for Bistro Remedios is to bring it to where it can reach more people,” says Lorna Cruz-Ambas, president and CEO of the LJC Restaurant Group, and Cruz’s daughter. “Bistro Remedios’ only branch is in the Old Manila area, and perhaps by taking it to the malls where it can reach a wider market, it can attain success similar to (sister restaurant) Abe. After all, before Abe, there was Bistro Remedios.”

In celebration of its 30th anniversary, Bistro Remedios introduces five new regional dishes in its menu.

Lechon Kawali sa Gata features everybody’s favorite fried pork belly simmering in coconut cream.

Sinugbang Manok, grilled Cebuano-style with soy, vinegar and spices, is a half chicken that can either be shared or enjoyed solo.

Adobong Hito is stewed in adobo seasoning and finished with coconut cream.

Piniñahang Baboy, also with coconut milk, is stewed pork belly with pineapple and vegetables.

Sinugba Platter is a generous spread of prawns, pork belly and Cebuano-style grilled chicken with achara and spicy vinegar.

Its first slogan, “Freshest is Best,” was, and is, no empty boast. Thirty years is a long time in the restaurant business and it only goes to show that good, honest Filipino food is still unbeatable and will last long after the fads have gone.

After all these years, Bistro Remedios has become an icon, a destination, and a tradition where old regulars still come and new ones who savor its signature dishes for the first time, vow to return.

Bistro Remedios is on Adriatico St., Remedios Circle, Malate, Manila. The restaurant is open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. on Monday, Thursday, Sunday; 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 12 mn on Friday and Saturday.

It has function rooms for private dining that can accommodate 12 to 50 persons. Call tel. 5239153.