Jade Garden—L/2, Glorietta 2, Ayala Center, Makati City; tel. 9551808, 9551728

From the 1990s to early 2000s, this restaurant was a favorite place for Peking duck and a selection of Cantonese dishes. It went into a hiatus for eight years when Glorietta was renovated.

Early this year Jade Garden resurfaced at its original location and this diner is glad to be back for a revisit.

It has metamorphosed into an elegant dining place with efficient staff and, needless to say, its familiar delicious food.

Dining area: One either goes up the winding green carpeted staircase or takes the elevator from the lobby to the main dining room on the second floor.

Today’s Jade Garden is a far cry from what it used to be. Private rooms can accommodate from six to 20 people.

Service: Two chefs from Hong Kong take charge of the kitchen. This perhaps explains the kitchen staff’s efficiency in serving orders in quick succession.

Staff: All are garbed in long-sleeved, loose orange top with Chinese collar and black accents, worn over black trousers. Lined up in the main dining room, they graciously greet diners, show them to their table and hand them the menu.

Suggested orders: This diner and company started with the Shredded Wintermelon with Dried Scallop Chicken Soup, very refreshing. Then we had a dish which surprised us—Fresh Suaje (medium-size shrimps) done with a coating of salted eggs. The eggs added texture and flavor without affecting the natural taste of the fresh shrimps. Very crispy, too, no need to peel.

Another dish that teased our taste buds was Steamed Chicken with Fried Fish Maw in Minced Garlic. Maw, which are actually dried swim bladders of large fish like croaker and sturgeon, were tasty and felt glutinous in our mouth. A more familiar dish, Poached Lapu-Lapu is filleted, poached in chicken soup, flavored with calamansi and patis. The blended seasoning gave the dish a very subtle flavor.

Now here is a dish with a story. The Rich Man’s Fried Rice is done with only egg whites because some rich Hong Kong male diners have become health-conscious.

The piece de resistance: Roast Suckling Pig, with its crispy skin, tender meat and Hoisin sauce.

Need a more festive menu? Order Roasted Peking Duck. But better reserve that for a second visit.

Government and service charges are added to the bill. Senior cards are honored.

Rating: 3 Spoons