Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour is not known for being a warm person. She has been called “Nuclear Wintour” for her icy demeanor and exacting standards. Those who are shown her warmer side are few and far between, and one of the lucky ones is South African-born milliner Albertus Swanepoel.
In 2008, he was one of the runners-up in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Awards in which Alexander Wang won the top prize. The other runner-up was Vena Cava, with its designers Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai.
The partnership between Vogue and the Council of Fashion Designers of America recognizes up-and-coming designers, providing cash prizes they can use to grow their business.
Swanepoel recalls how his 15-minute meeting with Wintour was nerve-wracking, although she had only kind words for him. She even wrote him a note after the meeting. The note is now framed, and is one of the milliner’s prized souvenirs.
Wintour’s nod of approval didn’t stop there. After making it to the Vogue Fund, Swanepoel has had his designs featured several times in Vogue, most recently on the May 2014 cover featuring Emma Stone.
Among the famous people seen wearing his creations were Jennifer Aniston, Meryl Streep and Leonardo DiCaprio.
Swanepoel started out as a fashion designer in Johannesburg before he decided to focus on hats.
In an interview with Lifestyle Inquirer on the eve of the launch of his collaboration with Bench, he said: “By the time I joined the CFDA/Vogue awards in 2008, I had already been in the business for 20 years. That experience opened up a lot of doors because it got my name out and I was approached by stylists and brands alike.”
Successful partnership
He has collaborated with J. Crew, Gap, Club Monaco, Stetson and most recently, Target.
“I was told by the people at Target that it was one of the most successful partnerships since they began collaborating with artists and designers. I’m not exactly sure what that means but it was definitely nice to hear.”
An Albertus Swanepoel hat usually costs $700 or $800 but at Target, certain styles retailed for only $20.
In his collaboration with Bench, he came up with over 20 designs that were then pared down to 13.
Prices range from P350 for baseball caps and beanies, to P1,700 for felt cloche/helmet with several colorful patches (a red star, a “B” for Bench varsity initial, and one in a detailed coat of arms style).
“When I design, I prefer my hats to have that slightly lived-in look, like it’s something that the user has worn for a while. I could never imagine doing what British milliner Philip Treacy does, which are lavish and show-stopping pieces,” he said.
Instead, he likes experimenting with fabrics and materials that one might not normally consider pairing, such as striped seersucker and camo print.
Using a patchwork style, he brought together the two materials in a floppy fisherman’s hat that was modeled by actor Dingdong Dantes. Swanepoel purposely left the edges unhemmed for that “lived-in look.”
His pompom-topped, camo-patterned beanies reference one of his past designs that incorporates black trash bags formed into pompoms. It turns out that in South Africa, the trash bags are recycled and repurposed as decor.
The milliner also designed woven fedoras with patterned jersey details, a turban-inspired cap made of shiny, lame-like material, and a couple of straw boaters.
An exhibit of his earlier designs for Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera and Ohne Titel was set up at the Bench Tower in Bonifacio Global City.
Swanepoel also gave a creative talk to fashion students on Thursday that also drew fashion writers. VIPs at the launch had the chance to buy the hats created in collaboration with Bench.
Myrza Sison, editor in chief of Cosmopolitan Phlippines, said she ended up buying around seven pieces. “The prices are so reasonable! Imagine you’re buying something designed by an actual milliner!”
The Albertus Swanepoel x Bench collaboration is available at select Bench stores nationwide.