AS WOMEN have become a lot more independent, so has their attitude toward jewelry.

Jewelry used to be an “emotional product,” one a man buys for a woman. But in recent years, that’s no longer the case, said Isabella Mann, vice president for marketing of Pandora Asia-Pacific.

A ring, for instance, used to be a symbolic gift from a man, Mann added, but now women buy their own rings.

“Women are buying jewelry for themselves because it’s part of their outfit or look. That may be why the ring category has changed, too,” she said.

Rings now comprise 20 percent of the Danish brand’s global business, though for many in the Philippines, Pandora is still known for its collectible charm bracelet, a popular gift item.

“But we’re a jewelry brand, not just a bracelet brand. We have long pendants and stacking rings,” she said, as she showed off the ring on her finger, a broad openwork rose design with micro pavé cubic zirconia.

New techniques

For Spring 2015 collection, Pandora has new techniques—cutout silhouettes, colored-enamel inserts and cubic zirconia in Murano glass charms, pavé-covered 3D forms, and openwork. Popular spring themes like flowers (primrose, rose) and butterflies are rendered in these techniques.

“In Pandora, we usually do things literally,” Mann said. “This spring, we do things in a more abstract way, like for example, a butterfly that’s about to take flight. It’s still very pretty and feminine. At the heart of what we do are women—what would make her feel special, how we can celebrate her individuality.”

For Mother’s Day, a big event in the Pandora business, new styles include a limited bangle with a heart micro pavé cubic zirconia charm with an inscription: “Always in my heart.” Many of the charms have engravings and personal inscriptions: “First my mother,” “Family always and forever,” and “We love you.”

Main inspiration

Pandora doesn’t take style cues from high-end jewelry brands, relying instead on fashion trends and feedback from consumers.

“We’re affordable luxury, so we don’t compare to high luxury, and we don’t take inspiration from them either,” Mann said.

“Our main inspiration is our customer, the female buyer. We know our customer well because we talk to her often through social media. We have a good idea of what she wants, and she’s at the forefront of our inspiration. We don’t behave like other jewelry brands.”

The Pandora customer is from teens to grandmothers, and from all sorts of backgrounds, she added.

Pandora is at Greenbelt 5, Glorietta 4, Bonifacio High Street Central, Newport Mall, Shangri-La Plaza Mall East Wing, The Podium, Elemento in SM Aura, SM Mega Fashion Hall and Century City Mall.