In the early ’70s Nouvelle Cuisine (New Cooking) swept the culinary world like a storm. Everyone was excited, talking about and adopting it because the idea came from the French, the much vaunted king of cuisine.

It was all about a new eating system that was a departure from the traditional, classic rich style. It advocated lighter food served in small quantities. Chefs and home cooks easily adapted to what would be the precursor of healthy eating.

Cookery is an evolving art. Like the Nouvelle, a lot of new trends and changes have occurred since the Middle Ages.

Now comes Modern Cuisine, embraced by some culinary experts.

To our mind, Filipino Modern Cuisine is maintaining old traditional taste and techniques. With the advent of a new generation of cooks, now called chefs, tried-and-tested dishes are given a modern touch.

We visited a restaurant whose tagline is Filipino Moderne, and we must say it is doing well.

Mesa, Filipino Moderne

Ground and second level, Evia Lifestyle Center, Daang Hari, Molino, Bacoor, Cavite

This was where our curiosity for this new trend was satisfied.

Dining area—There are banquets on the ground level. Chairs and tables are set comfortably with enough space for easy movement. We did not experience the usual noise that often distracts diners.

Service—Fast, suggesting an efficient kitchen.

Staff—Quick to respond and helpful. They are neatly garbed.

Suggested orders—Here is where the old and the new blend well. We believe that some traditional Filipino dishes cannot be “modernized.” Hence the kare-kare came in its traditional bowl of meat (a choice between tripe and oxtail is in the menu), retaining its original flavors and done with mixed vegetables and rich, creamy peanut sauce with bagoong on the side. Super!

Now, the moderne is basically in recipe execution and creative plating. The starter of Tilapia Rolls are fish flakes with tomatoes, onions and salted eggs wrapped in lettuce; the Pomelo Salad with Latik (toasted grated coconut); the Adobo Sauted in Olive Oil with garlic and laurel leaf; the Mesa Braised Beef with dessicated coconut, a takeoff from rendang in two ways, saucy or crispy; Drunken Ostrich tenderloin marinated in rice wine cooked with mushrooms; and Duck Basil Fried Rice.

It’s worth a second visit.

Government and service charges are included in the bill. Senior cards are honored.
Rating – 3 Spoons.