Just like Alice setting foot in Wonderland, entering the stark white space housing Louis Vuitton’s latest collection entailed total aesthetic immersion.
The heritage brand transformed, if only briefly, the 29th floor of Hong Kong’s 50 Connaught Road Central designed by Robert A.M. Stern to suit its sweet and whimsical Spring-Summer 2012 collection. From the conspicuous white makeshift carousel to the pastel frocks and translucent bags, it was clear that this season was the reverse mirror image of last season’s fetish-inclined streak.
If Fall-Winter focused on lust, Spring-Summer revolved around love and joie de vivre. In place of navy and black were sweet sorbet shades and, instead of strict silhouettes, came curvaceous crinolines and floating feathers. But the overarching theme was impeccable craftsmanship and ornate couture artistry.
Throughout the collection, broderie anglaise was a persistent presence—from a simple immaculate white organza shift to an elaborate baby doll dress with sequins and ostrich feathers worn by Kate Moss in Louis Vuitton’s Paris show. The needlework technique came in various permutations: laser-cut, wrapped in silk cellophane, studded and in stone paper leather, and adorned with strass, studs and gargantuan 3D flowers, all in hues as sweet as Ladurée treats.
As billowy and fluid silhouettes took over linear forms, sleeves and crinolines were gently molded into round shapes, which made for dainty and ladylike frocks.
Outerwear staples were also reinterpreted to suit the warm and sunny season. Marc Jacobs refined mannish lines into sleek feminine silhouettes with chalky motorcycle jackets, military knits in pastel cashmere with broderie anglaise patches, and a Prince-of-Wales check balmacaan coat bonded with broderie anglaise.
For accessories, last season’s gold was replaced by bright silver on exquisite tiaras, bangles with tiny bells, and charm necklaces strung with personal talismans (feather, bell or rock crystal).
Mules and pumps were made more interesting with transparent panels, two-tone pastel straps, exotic textures and, on some, metallic silver toe caps.
The luxury brand’s iconic bags, the Lockit and the Speedy, joined the parade as well. In line with the collection’s mellow spirit, the Lockit was in sheer nylon voile and had a small Monogram canvas purse. The Speedy was reinterpreted in bleached denim woven with silver thread, and powdered or whitewashed crocodile.
Basket bags were also transformed into swanky arm candy in embossed and perforated metallic leather.
However, the collection’s pièce de résistance is a dainty minaudière with a monogram mosaic. The mosaic was scrupulously pieced together for over six hours from 12,500 fragments of eggshell—talk about love and commitment.
