On the fingers of jeweler Kristine Dee are diamonds and a pearl. There’s hardly any band in sight—it turns out they’re fastened to two half-bands behind her fingers. “They follow the curves of the fingers so they feel snug when worn,” she explains.
Dee’s upcoming trunk show, “Riveted,” explores jewelry findings, or components that serve a mechanical purpose of linking, joining or attaching the gems.
The theme may seem technical because it revolves around a not-so-obvious functional element. For Dee, it’s a way of challenging herself with new techniques and designs.
The 50-piece collection will either highlight or obscure these connectors such as rivets, bands and hinges.
One of Dee’s interesting designs is an earring with three bands of diamonds and tsavorites that look like they’re falling off the ear. “They seem disconnected but are linked behind the ear by a post,” she points out.
She attributes the theme to her background. After finishing postgraduate studies in industrial design and courses in jewelry making at Pratt Institute in New York, she started making furniture in Manila.
“The joinery is important in connecting a leg to the table top. Each piece serves a purpose,” she says.
Likewise, jewelry connectors are important in creating structure and design.
Since her clients look for dainty and feminine styles, Dee makes the jewelry connectors softer and refined.
Among her signature gemstones are spinels and tsavorites. “They are durable and come in vibrant colors,” she says. “The spinels are often mistaken for rubies and sapphires. When cut expertly, they reflect and refract light.”
She also favors tsavorite for its uncommon and brilliant green luster.
Dee’s colorful and feminine styles have evolved since she launched her jewelry 15 years ago.
Through the years, she has adapted her styles to accommodate clients who want softer lines and colorful gemstones.
These women prefer customized jewelry, or want their heirloom pieces redesigned.
“I examine their faces to make sure that the earrings suit their shapes,” Dee says. “When making bracelets or cuffs, I also look at the shape and length of the arm and the shape of the wrist. I get to know their lifestyle and preferences.”
The current jewelry trend is minimalist or barely there gold bangles and rings. “There was a time when people liked rose gold,” she says. “Now it’s delicate chains, bangles and extra fine rings. You can stack them up or wear a fine band on each finger.” —CONTRIBUTED
“Riveted” will be held Oct. 19, 1-7 p.m., at Chef Jessie, Rockwell Club, Makati City.