There was a sort of gentleness to the Moschino show, as it’s worth noting that the house has been known for its playful and subversive designs for some time now. Pre-show, fashion enthusiasts could speculate that the FW2324 RTW collection would likely feature the Italian powerhouse’s signature bold looks, incorporating pop culture references and unexpected twists in its designs. Instead, compared to previous collections in only Moschino-standards, we were presented with something subdued, relaxed, and calm. Not so loud, yet not so quiet either. Once a havoc-wreaking animal, is now a hibernating bear: dangerous only because of what he is, not because of what he’s doing. 

Moschino, known for its bold, colorful, and playful designs, often incorporates pop culture references, whimsical motifs, and satirical elements into its collections. They’re loud, campy, and over-the-top; One should fully expect a hallucinatory fever dream even when they’ve only had a cold brew to start their morning. When it comes to Moschino, it’s not just about creating cutting-edge couture, no. This fashion house has got a wicked sense of humor to boot. They’re not afraid to take risks and push boundaries, but they never take themselves too seriously. It’s a delicate balance, but Moschino manages to make it work. They’re the life of the couture party, and everyone’s clamoring for an invite. That’s part of Moschino’s charm, its essence, and its difference, in the world of fashion: extreme exaggeration. So why does this feel different? Serving as Creative Director since 2013, Jeremy Scott has undoubtedly made his mark and proved to be a loyal successor to the label’s DNA. He wasn’t molded into it; rather, he was born for it. Coming out of his mother’s womb, Scott absorbed every creative power into him through his umbilical cord, and the first word that came out of his mouth was: “Create” – allegedly. 

Taking the reigns from Franco Moschino’s longtime friend and only the second creative director of the brand, Rossella Jardini, Scott formed and expanded a more irreverent appeal for the Moschino brand, and for the better. He didn’t just inherit a House; he made a home.

Salvador Dali’s The Persistence of Memory plays a part | Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

The Persistence of Memory by Salvador Dali begets the vision for FW2324. As I gazed upon each garment, I thought: “Is it really as rebellious and boundary-pushing as it’s being made out to be?”  When I delved into it, I couldn’t help but feel like I was stepping into a Salvador Dalí painting, complete with all the surrealism and mind-bending twists that entails. But it wasn’t just trippy visuals that caught my eye – there was an aristo-punk flair to the collection that gave it a distinct edge.

The collection is interpreted to reflect Dali’s painting | Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

Everywhere I looked, there were oversized spikes jutting out like an angsty teen’s wardrobe come to life. But there was more to it than that – the bijoux detailing added a touch of elegance and refinement to the collection, while the morphing hemlines gave it a sense of constant motion. It’s the jewel box explosion across a satin evening bolero, down the cascade of a tulle ballgown, and onto a sparkling tasseled 1920s-era dress that really steals the show. It’s a surrealism-tinged rebellion that’s sure to turn heads, but whether it’s a truly innovative and boundary-pushing take on Moschino’s iconic aesthetic remains to be seen. 

Yet, maybe this is what Scott is going for: Dali’s painting features a dream-like landscape with melting clocks draped over various objects, including a branch, a rocky cliff, and a face. The melting clocks are a symbol of the fluidity of time and the idea that time is subjective and can be distorted in the dream world. It is interpreted as a reflection on the nature of reality and the passing of time. It has also been analyzed as a commentary on the anxieties of the modern world, with the melting clocks representing the uncertainty and instability of life in the 20th century. After years of exaggerated and colorful efforts, maybe it’s this season where Moschino tames down for a while, as a reflection of the distorted times of society. 

Moschino finishes off with a dazzling end | Giovanni Giannoni for WWD

The Moschino FW2324 collection is visually striking and full of interesting design elements – enough to make a Real Housewife blush – but it’s worth questioning whether it’s truly pushing any boundaries or challenging the status quo in a meaningful way. In a world where nonconformity and rebellion are increasingly commodified and co-opted by the fashion industry, it’s important to ask ourselves: is this really rebellious, or is it just another trend? Either way, it’s clear that Jeremy Scott isn’t afraid to play with convention and take things to the next level – even if that means warping boot buckles fantastically.

Images by Giovanni Giannoni for WWD