Benetton steps down as fashion empire struggles | Inquirer Lifestyle

Benetton steps down as fashion empire struggles

Luciano Benetton. AFP FILE PHOTO

PONZANO VENETO—Italy’s Luciano Benetton handed over the reins of his fashion empire on Tuesday to his son, who must relaunch a struggling brand known for its controversial ad campaigns.

Benetton, 76, who founded his clothing company with his siblings 47 years ago, appointed his son Alessandro, already the firm’s vice chairman, to head up the tired business at a shareholder meeting in northern Italy.

Benetton senior is to stay on at the company as an advisor.

“Alessandro Benetton will guide the evolution of the company in a scenario of changing markets, complicated by the credit crisis,” the company said.

The half-century has seen the brand grow into a giant, with some 6,000 stores in 120 countries, but it has faced stiff competition from newer high street chains such as H&M and Zara, and has suffered from the eurozone crisis.

The company has also had to deal with rising prices of raw materials such as cotton.

Benetton posted a 28 percent drop in net profits for 2011 at 73 million euros ($96 million) on sales that fell one percent to 2.0 billion euros.

In taking over the struggling empire, 48-year-old Alessandro — who studied at Harvard and is married to former ski champion Deborah Compagnoni — will have to take difficult strategic decisions which may include asset disposals.

The company is also de-listing from the Milan stock exchange so the family can resume total control.

“Leaving the stock market and investing in ourselves and in the future of the group is a clear demonstration of our commitment, determination and intention to move beyond this complex phase,” Alessandro said.

He said the company would search for growth in emerging markets “including India, Russia, Turkey, Central America, South Korea and Taiwan.”

He added that Benetton will not be paying a divided “for a few years.”

Giuliano Noci, professor of economy at Milan’s Polytechnic University, told AFP the generation change was “a good move.”

“Over the course of the last 10-15 years, Benetton has not had the capacity to innovate which distinguished it in the past … while the world of fashion underwent a great change with the arrival of Zara and H&M,” he said.

The company will have to adopt “a more aggressive model (and) … innovate their products, as Zara and H&M offer a more glamorous style,” he added.

Benetton acknowledged that he was entrusting his son with a difficult mission, but said: “The challenge is always the same; to create, imagine, and be innovative — that’s what entrepreneurs have always done and will continue to do.

“Alessandro has shown — not least in his business career — that he is not a quitter. He is someone who aims for success in everything he does,” the senior Benetton added.

The clothing chain became famous in the 1980s and 1990s with a series of shocking ads.

One depicted a young nun in white kissing a priest dressed in a black cassock and others addressed important issues such as AIDS, homosexuality, hunger, refugees, racism, religion, death row inmates and war.

The brand courted new controversy last year with a campaign featuring world figures kissing, including a photo-montage of an embrace between the Pope and a Muslim cleric which was dropped after the Vatican threatened legal action.

Luciano named his son as his likely successor in 2005 and the extended family has always played a key part in the company’s vision.

In 2006, three generations of the normally publicity-shy Benetton family posed for the cover of an Italian edition of Vanity fair in front of their 17th century villa in Ponzano Veneto, to celebrate the company’s 40th anniversary.

Luciano Benetton, who sports long white hair and trademark round glasses, is one of Italy’s most renowned self-made men.

As a teenager, he saw how popular the sweaters knitted by his younger sister Giuliana were and invested in his own knitting machine, selling the jumpers door to door before, flush with success, he started up his company.

In 1962, he jazzed up the wool market’s traditional and rather dour sweater offerings by launching five youthful, informal models in 36 colors.

Photo campaigns shot by Italian photographer Oliviero Toscani captured Benetton’s desire to promote tolerance, anti-racism and multiculturalism and secured the company world-wide fame as “The United Colors of Benetton.”

BE THE FIRST TO SEE WHAT`S IN THE SPOTLIGHT FROM LIFESTYLE. INQ