Hot take: You don’t need purely Italian ingredients to make authentic Italian food.
Or at least that’s what a small, cozy eatery in Makati is trying to prove. La Carinderia has made a name for itself as an authentic Italian restaurant in Siargao, and since opening its doors in Makati—a warm, brick-hued, modern nook unlike its island hut first branch—the city’s foodies have been raving.
Chef Stefano Tomasiello, a Piedmont native who moved to the Philippines a decade ago, runs the two outposts of La Carinderia with his wife Priscilla.
The chef had a revelation: that the Italian trattoria was like the Filipino karinderya—both casual, affordable, and often family-run eateries that serve up local fare. Given the common heart that beats between the two concepts, he sought to marry them in La Carinderia.
“When we arrived in Siargao about a decade ago, I remember how I told my wife I wanted to make my own karinderya after I ate there a few times around the country,” says La Carinderia chef Stefano Tomasiello
Inspiration comes from every corner, Tomasiello says, even from eating at a local eatery. Or in the case of La Carinderia, especially so. “When we arrived in Siargao about a decade ago, I remember how I told my wife I wanted to make my own karinderya after I ate there a few times around the country,” he says. And now he’s done it.
Authenticity through traditional techniques and local ingredients
La Carinderia, even from the name itself, is a concept rife with beautiful contradictions and contrasts. It is both Italian and local, highlighting both Italy’s tradition, and the Philippines’ abundant agricultural products. Casual but with dishes that would impress any date. Sleek, yet warm, with cheeky gems like illustrated posters that say “pasta ikaw” and “tira-mishu” (playing on “basta ikaw” and tiramisu and the cutesy colloquialized “miss you!”).
And though Tomasiello says he’s “never really considered standing out from other restaurants,” by simply following where his joy and passion in the kitchen takes him, La Carinderia has been making its mark as one of the must-visit Italian spots in the city.
“When we started our restaurant, we just basically wanted a place where we could eat the dishes that we usually do at home. Our inspirations are the trattoria in Italy and the karinderya in the Philippines,” he says.
His vision is simple, and the straightforwardness of the menu shows it: La Carinderia is designed to be “a welcoming place, unpretentious and comfortable. [We want the] vibe of being in a small restaurant in Italy; a restaurant that connects Italian [and] Filipino culinary cultures.”
And so, they offer a no-frills menu—no flashy names or presentation or showmanship—just good, traditional cooking and quality local ingredients shining through on each plate.
“When we started our restaurant, we just basically wanted a place where we could eat the dishes that we usually do at home. Our inspirations are the trattoria in Italy and the karinderya in the Philippines”
“In Siargao, we were the first restaurant to do fresh, handmade pasta. For Makati, the format for us is instead of going big, we made it small, and instead of making it complicated, we made it simple but good quality,” Tomasiello says. “We don’t know if many people would agree with us, but sometimes when a restaurant has a long menu, it’s just not as appetizing anymore.”
“I like working with what is fresh and good quality,” Tomasiello says. “[I like] partnering with small local farmers and cheese makers, local butchers who use sustainable methods in their process of delivering premium ingredients. I am trying to make guests aware of the quality of local ingredients that you can find in the country.”
The laing ravioli—a special on the menu—is one of the many dishes that highlights the beautiful marriage of Italian and Filipino cuisines. Inspired by the Italian ricotta and spinach ravioli, it is given a local flavor by changing spinach to laing, and using local ricotta from Negros. Grana Padano cheese, which the chef notes is still hard to reproduce locally, gives the ravioli its Italian touch, all while being encased in freshly made pasta.
Other standouts on the menu include the carbonara, done in the good old traditionally Italian way (with rich, salty bits of guanciale that had our group’s carbonara lovers fighting over). The burrata, also sourced from Negros, has a mild, creamy, taste; the tiramisu, served in a small glass, is light and creamy.
Connecting a food community
La Carinderia’s Manila outpost is proving that it is more than just a city branch of the surfing capital. Though small, the cozy restaurant has made its mark, adding to the colorful gastronomic tapestry spread over Makati.
Legazpi Village is both literally and figuratively a home to Tomasiello and his wife. “We divide our time between living in Siargao and Makati (when we are not in Italy), so Legazpi Village is home to us,” he says. “We are always excited about new places opening in our area, trying everything but always going back to our favorite spots where we would meet friends even when we don’t plan anything.”
“I think we are in the time when Filipinos are showing how abundant this country is not just with ingredients, but with skills and unique qualities. It really inspires us and we hope that in our own little way, we do the same for others”
Because Megaworld has the most ideal locations in the city, Tomasiello shares feeling fortunate to have been able to find a space for La Carinderia in Greenbelt Hamilton.
“For us, having our restaurant within walking distance from where we live is the [ideal! It’s] another place for us to be with our community to meet, share good food, and good laughs!” he adds. “[Also, Megaworld Lifestyle Malls was] very open to working with a small and independent business like us and they’re very flexible with exploring ideas for future expansion.”
The fascinating Manila food scene, according to Tomasiello, has made it even more exciting and inspiring to be creative with their food. “In the last decade (since I moved to the Philippines), I’ve been constantly impressed by what is out there, the level of passion and creativity is just more and more. I think we are in the time when Filipinos are showing how abundant this country is not just with ingredients, but with skills and unique qualities. It really inspires us and we hope that in our own little way, we do the same for others.”
Megaworld Lifestyle Malls’ World of Flavors celebrates the artistry, passion, and compelling stories of culinary visionaries and restaurateurs.
