Led Zeppelin famously sang, “All that glitters is gold” in “Stairway to Heaven,” and that rang true as Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled the Women’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection for Paris Fashion Week.
The show was set against the sprawling backdrop of the Trocadéro, the Eiffel Tower peeking out overhead, and the Seine stretching beyond it. And while the setting was grand, the collection itself had plenty of spectacle to match. The effect was utterly magical.
Historically, Yves Saint Laurent adored the shade, famously once calling gold “today’s black.” Through his design, the brand is known for livening up evening wear with the brand’s distinctive glimmering buttons, belts, and chains.
So it was most appropriate for creative director Vaccarello to construct the latest Saint Laurent collection around the shade. The runway dripped with shimmering accessories, from massive, dangling filigree earrings to shoes crafted with metallic chains, wrapped over snake-shaped heels.
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Despite being a Spring/Summer collection, the silhouettes ranged from safari jackets to trench coats. Underneath were flowy blouses paired on top of wrap skirts—earthy, yet still shimmering. Multi-colored scarves billowed behind models. While there were also structured suits and coats, some edged with fur. Other gold coats later gave way to theatrical black velvet tailored pieces.
All throughout the collection was a spectrum of gold hues, from pale shades to burnished textures. The materials were wide-ranging too, with many lustrous lamé pieces, organza, lace, and the occasional brocade, jacquard, and of course, a little flair with gold-leaf-coated latex.
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To close the show, Vacarello himself walked the runway, handing a key to a young boy in the audience. The enigmatic gesture has sparked rumors and speculation over whether the spectacular show could also be a hint at the designer’s official Saint Laurent exit.
