When a chef is unburdened by trends, it’s hard not to view them in a curious way. The restaurant industry, after all, is an ever-evolving landscape but there’s also a glorious sense that comes from daringly sticking to your guns and sitting comfortably in your own skin.

You get a stronger sense of who they are and a grip on their unwavering commitment to their ethos. That said, prolific Australian chef Andrew McConnell is also no stranger to treading difficult waters—as is the case when he opened the 150-seat restaurant and bar Gimlet at the 1920s Chicago-style Cavendish House in July 2020.

Three years later, Gimlet has indeed become “a space for all seasons and reasons” that serves as yet another sparkling reminder of McConnell’s deft touch at crafting F&B concepts that stirs all senses.

Gimlet is a confident moment of grandeur in Melbourne that not only features chef Andrew McConnell’s range of inspiration and influences but also nods to polished European flavors and beverages.

“I wanted it to feel quite timeless and I think in six to eight years it will start to look better and better with a bit of patina,” says McConnell to The Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food. “I wanted materials to represent different zones: timber, leather and marble in the bar, then you step up into the dining room and its carpets and linens, a little bit softer, a bit more gentle.”

Nostalgia and glamour are key influences inside Melbourne brasserie Gimlet — Nostalgia and glamour are key influences inside this Melbourne brasserie

A waiter setting the tables before the start of service

It’s a confident moment of grandeur in Melbourne that not only features McConnell’s range of inspiration and influences but also nods to the polished European flavors and beverages—think gnocco fritto, bresaola, and Parmesan; yellowfin tuna, oxheart tomato, and sobrasada; and a Gippsland strip steak—that had our sister brand Lifestyle Inquirer raving on a recent visit to Gimlet.

Here, we spoke with McConnell on striking the right balance between bar and restaurant, the relationship of food and design, and what really makes Melbourne not just a great coffee destination but also an exciting food city.

Is there one dish that portrays the personality of Gimlet?

It’s hard to choose one dish, however our wood-fired whole lobster on saffron rice is probably the most representative of the personality of Gimlet. It has the wow factor without being showy, it relies on beautiful produce, simply cooked in a very natural way, and is perfect for sharing with friends and family.

½ Southern rock lobster in saffron rice and rouille

What food trends do you think are going to be huge in 2024?

This is not something I really think about—trends have never been high on my agenda but I think we’ll continue to see more and more vegetable-based dishes on menus that have as much care and thought go into them as more traditional protein-based dishes.

Gimlet is both a bar and a restaurant. Do you think there are tenets to pulling this off successfully?

Yes, although they are not always easily defined. The obvious ones are layout, flow, having the right space to allow each to function both separately and together, and good acoustics. Overall, you want each space to feel as considered and valued as the other.

Gimlet's salt-baked fish — Gimlet’s salt-baked fish

Dry-aged O’Connor T-bone 900g cooked over coals with condiments

Is there a difference or an advantage between being a chef or running a restaurant in Melbourne compared to other food cities in North America or Europe?

I’ve never run a restaurant in North America or Europe so it’s hard to say. I do feel incredibly fortunate to live and work in the great city of Melbourne and I appreciate every day the opportunities and freedom we have to do what we love in a place where food and people are valued, respected, and celebrated.

“For a restaurant to feel cohesive, there should be a link between the food and the interiors but this can be subtle. What matters is integrity; that it feels real and not forced.”

What makes Melbourne a great food city?

Its accessibility and diversity.

How would you define the relationship between food and design? Has it changed since you first opened in 2020?

For a restaurant to feel cohesive, there should be a link between the food and the interiors but this can be subtle. What matters is integrity; that it feels real and not forced. This has been part of what we do since we opened (and before this at my other venues). It hasn’t changed.