Give the diners what they want but stay true to the original concept of “subversive” Filipino cuisine. That’s the lesson restaurateur Bambi Sy Gobio learned after nine years of running Restaurante Pia y Damaso (or simply Damaso) at Greenbelt 5.
A fan of our National Hero José Rizal, Gobio came up with a full menu inspired by characters in the books “Noli Me Tángere” and “El Filibusterismo.” It included pheasant and crocodile meat as well as a selection of decadent, imaginatively-named desserts.
The restaurant then was designed to evoke an old church with a “confessional” near the entrance, crystal chandeliers and a missallette-like bound menu.
“We attracted people who had read the books and remembered portions as they looked through the menu,” said Gobio. “They appreciated the efforts we had made, but there were some who found the restaurant intimidating. Mukhang mahal daw (It looked expensive).”
Milestone anniversary
Despite this, Damaso soldiered on and will be marking its 10th anniversary next year. A few weeks ago, the restaurant underwent renovations that have made it look more inviting. The long counter that used to take up a lot of space was pushed back, freeing up valuable dining space, while the walls that were a plain beige are now a buttery yellow.
From 20 customers, the restaurant can now accommodate almost 40, that’s excluding the al fresco dining area with a view of Greenbelt Park.
“People now come in and ask if we’re a new restaurant,” said Gobio. “It boggles the mind.”
Familiar dishes
The menu has likewise been updated with more familiar fare like Tapsilog (tapa, sinangag, itlog), Arroz ala Cubana, Monggo Soup, Fried Chicken with Salted Egg and Grilled Porkchops.
“I’ve been wanting to put carabao meat on the menu and was finally able to do it with the Arroz ala Cubana. I used ground carabeef which has no fat at all, and placed it over fried rice topped with an egg and fried plantains.”
Gobio said ginisang monggo might be simple pambahay fare but she prepared it using traditional French cooking techniques. The result is a silken bisque that those who have ordered it have been raving about.
Chicken and chops
The Fried Chicken with Salted Egg and the Grilled Porkchops are good with rice; the latter is served with a ketchup made with pineapple that is deliciously addicting.
“I didn’t want to let go of the original concept of the restaurant, which is subversive Filipino cuisine, but I knew I had to tone it down, make it more appealing. The subversive part is the addition of octopus and carabeef (for the Arroz and caldereta) in the new menu, and the use of French cooking techniques,” she said.
Gobio is hopeful the changes made in the menu and in the restaurant’s appearance will result in more customers.
“It’s a daily struggle,” she said.
Damaso, 2/F Greenbelt 5, Makati. Call 7295511 or 0917-8656995.
