Meghan Markle surprised and delighted royal fans and style pundits alike with her choice of wedding dress—and designer—for her nuptials with Prince Harry on May 19 at Windsor Castle.

Stunning in its starkly unembellished simplicity, the haute couture dress by Clare Waight Keller of Givenchy was nothing like the somewhat risqué Ralph & Russo couture Markle wore to her official engagement photos. Ralph & Russo was hotly tipped as designer of her wedding dress.

But the bookies got it all wrong. The new duchess went Brit, all right, just not to one that’s based in the kingdom. (She did go to another Brit,
Stella McCartney, for her wedding party dress—but more on that later.)

How Kensington Palace managed to keep a lid on all this and throw the prying media off the scent, until the bride stepped out of the burgundy Rolls Royce at St. George’s Chapel, is one for the books.

Keller made history last year when she was named first female artistic director of the renowned French house (its namesake founder, who made clothes for Audrey Hepburn, died only last March).

The dress Keller made for the new duchess was of double-bonded silk cady that had six strategically placed seams, which emphasized Markle’s slender waist. Its bateau neckline framed the former actress’ elegant neck and shoulders. The sleek A-line dress was devoid of frills and decoration, down to its short train.

Any similarities it had to Kate Middleton’s Alexander McQueen wedding dress ended in the length of the sleeves—in a nod to tradition, both dresses had long and modest sleeves.

Kibitzers hoping to see a Disney princess dress were surely thrown into a tizzy. But the dress choice was fraught with meaning. The American divorcee, 36, is a modern, confident woman, a humanitarian who’s an outspoken advocate of women’s rights. The dress, stripped off all whimsy, was all about her, not the title she was about to assume. It was made for Meghan Markle—a real woman, not a fantasy princess.

Any ornamentation was reserved for the silk veil, which was edged with hand-embroidered flowers representing the 53 Commonwealth nations; the California poppy, a nod to the bride’s birthplace; and wintersweet, which grows in her new home, Kensington Palace.

Something borrowed

Markle’s “something borrowed” was a bandeau tiara of platinum and diamonds once owned by Queen Mary, and loaned by Queen Elizabeth to her new granddaughter-in-law. She also wore diamond earrings and a bangle bracelet of white gold and diamonds, both by Cartier. Her shoes were custom Givenchy.

She carried a bouquet that included forget-me-nots, personally handpicked by Prince Harry from the gardens of Kensington. They were a favorite of his mother, Diana, who died when he was only 12. It was just one of the many ways the couple made sure the late princess was included in their wedding. (A favorite hymn of Diana was also played at Saturday’s wedding.) Diana’s siblings were all in attendance.

Markle wore her hair up, in her signature messy bun, that was blasted by critics when some strands framing her face came undone during the ceremony. But her defenders insisted that was part of the Meghan Markle charm—she was perfectly imperfect, not a polished, manufactured princess. Her makeup was simple—smoky eyes, pale pink lips, freckles proudly on show.

For the intimate reception dinner party at Frogmore House hosted by Prince Charles, Markle changed into a white high-neck, open-back halter number, a luscious tumble of fabric at the hem. The slinky dress was a Stella McCartney.

The new duchess kept her updo from the morning ceremonies, but changed into white Aquazzura pumps, its soles dyed baby blue. But that wasn’t her only “something blue”—she also sported an aquamarine cocktail ring once owned by Diana. She and her prince—who, to fans’ delight, didn’t shave his beard— drove off to the reception in a silver-blue vintage Jaguar convertible.

Understated

Unlike at the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton in 2011, the guests’ style last Saturday was a lot more understated. Even Princesses Beatrice and Eugenie, who inspired many memes for their outré fascinators seven years ago, wore decidedly subdued accessories this time around.

The bride’s mother, Doria Ragland, was in a tasteful pea-green coatdress by Oscar de la Renta and a simple hat over her pulled-back dreadlocks. Nose jewelry glinted on the right side of her face.

The Queen wore a bright lime green dress, while the Duchess of Cornwall went for pink and a feathered hat.

Royal fans witnessed Hollywood descend on Windsor, with guests like Oprah Winfrey, in a custom blush Stella McCartney and vintage Philip Treacy hat; George Clooney and Brit barrister wife Amal, in a buttercup yellow dress, also by Stella McCartney; David and Victoria Beckham, she in her own design and perpetual scowl; Elton John, who performed at the afternoon reception; Serena Williams in Versace; Priyanka Chopra in Vivienne Westwood and Philip Treacy hat; and Markle’s “Suits” costars, among others.

The same VIPs changed into evening wear for the Frogmore House dinner, with tennis ace Williams, for instance, changing into a floral Valentino—and sneakers. Actress Troian Bellisario, wife of Markle’s TV husband Patrick J. Adams, shared on Instagram stories that the bride provided cushy slippers to her female guests at the reception, which they took, happily shedding off their heels.

Scene-stealers at the wedding were the bride’s little bridesmaids and pageboys. The little girls, led by Princess Charlotte, also wore custom Givenchy dresses and custom Aquazzura Mary Janes embroidered with their initials and the wedding date. The boys, with Prince George, wore miniature versions of the military uniform of the groom and his best man, Prince Williams.