Manila’s got a new title as the city that’s always drinking coffee.
At least that’s according to ST.ALi’s beverage operations manager, Alex Wang. “Manila is a wonderful city. I would say almost 24 hours drinking coffee, everyone drinking coffee. Even if we finish late, we can still see people queueing for coffee,” he says. “It’s quite a surprise because it’s a very different culture than where we’re from.”
Wang is in Manila with brand CEO Lachlan Ward for the opening of their flagship store in Manila. Located across Grand Hyatt Manila in BGC, this is officially ST.ALi’s second branch in the Philippine capital.
The Philippines has been noted to be the second largest coffee-drinking country in Asia, and major players in the global coffee industry are taking note.
ST.ALi, which has been in the business for two decades, has been one of the leaders, participants, and witnesses to the evolution of the industry. “We’re 20 years old this year, so I’m super proud of that,” says Ward. “The coffee landscape has changed a lot in that 20 years, and I think, looking back at those early years in our business, it was a very exciting time in coffee, especially [because] coffee was just starting as a movement. Cities like Melbourne were the epicenter of that globally, and I think over the past 20 years or so, we’ve seen it move into other parts of the world.”
Ward looks at Asia for the future of coffee, citing the “enthusiasm and excitement around coffee” that pulses through Asia’s major cities—Manila very much included.
Thus prompted ST.ALi’s expansion into Manila, bringing not just their specialty coffee, but also the overall experience of ST.ALi as a brand—from establishing all-natural environments for their cafes, to craft innovative dishes, drinks, and coffee experiences. “Manila is an exciting city for coffee, and I’m excited to be part of Manila’s evolution when it comes to coffee,” Ward says.
Coffee as an experience
For ST.ALi, coffee is beyond what goes into your cup. Food, ambiance, and hospitality all go hand-in-hand in brewing what is ST.ALi’s signature experience.
“If you come to one of our cafes, expect restaurant-quality food and service that goes alongide it. That kind doesn’t really exist elsewhere in the world for brunch,” Ward says. “We’ve held up that part of the experience as almost as, or just as important as the coffee.”
“The experience is always unique,” Wang adds. “We try to be cool, unique, we try to always push boundaries and try different ways to approach.”
ST.ALi’s menu also reflects this dedication to elevate the brunch and coffee experience. “You’ll see some classics from our Melbourne venue that has stood the test of time through countless thousands of diners through the journey,” Ward says. “But I think one thing we’ve learned since opening in Manila is that localizing the offerings is really important. We take inspiration both in the food and the beverage menu from the local environment.”
Thus, distinctly Filipino flavors—calamansi, ube, and pandan—have been infused into a number of key items on the menu. The ube matcha latte, for example, blends the subtly earthy umami of matcha with the comforting sweetness of ube, with an added tropical hint of passion fruit syrup that serves to make the flavors stand out.
Other specials to look out for include the Tim Tam, which Wang shares is a chocolatey, salted caramel drink based on the popular Australian biscuit. On the brunch front, an ode to the esteemed chef and food writer Anthony Bourdain—aptly called the Bourdain sandwich—will be on the menu.
Another distinct experience exclusive to the flagship store is a multi-course coffee omakase called Ceremony by ST.ALi. The omakase highlights the brand’s standout coffees, paired with rich desserts that serve to complement the coffee’s notes.
In our exclusive first experience of the Ceremony by ST.ALi, we were treated to a three-course pairing of Colombia Zarza Pacamara Natural coffee. First, prepared as a pour over that allowed the coffee’s floral and fruit notes to stand out. It was paired with a rich, chocolate eclair with orange diplomat, filled with citrus cream.
In the second course, aptly called “Two to Tango,” the coffee was prepare two ways: as espresso and with a milk blend of full-cream, coconut, and macadamia. The strong espresso can be paired with a light, chocolate sorbet, enjoyed together as if an affogato.
The final course in the omakase marries coffee and cocktail through the Black Forest Negroni. Gin, vermouth rosso, Campari, cherry syrup, and espresso mix, with each sip a powerful blend of flavors. The cocktail’s unorthodox but fitting “chow” comes in the form of a chocolate mousse, velvety and slightly savory thanks to the drizzling of oil and sea salt.
“This part of the menu we’re offering is really trying to elevate and explore all the unique characteristics of some of the most high-end coffees that we can source,” Ward shares. The omakase experience is meant to be a private tasting experience, in a special area of the cafe’s second floor, adding to the solemn intimacy of this so-called coffee ceremony.
“I think coffee for us is not just coffee. It’s more like an experience, on how to tease your taste buds and make you have a little bit of a different experience than what’s normal, than just coffee as caffeine,” Wang adds.
ST.ALi Coffee opens Oct. 31 at Grand Hyatt Bonifacio Global City.
