The brunt of Australian chef Wade Watson’s elegant new restaurant at the chic fourth floor of the Levanto building on Jupiter Street in Makati comes down to two key anchors: sharper execution and alluring Australian products.
Sure, the menu is structured around familiarity—featuring classic dishes that never go out of style like steak tartare and lobster bisque—but it’s designed into a strong collection that delivers what customers can expect from the Bondi & Bourke chef.
While there are flashes of Bondi & Bourke brilliance here, Brontë is more than just an elevated replica of its sibling or a high-end Australian “barbie” steakhouse—though meat is definitely the main highlight of Watson and partner Derek Ramsay’s concept.
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The room, overlooking a section of the Makati skyline, sets the fine dining tone from the get-go. It is decked out in shades of burnt orange and wine, and adorned with large yucca plants and decorative light bulbs that signal where the experience is headed.
That is, fine dining without the intimidation, à la carte over degustation. Brontë doesn’t require pretense; it rewards guests with a quiet prestige that proves honest-to-goodness cooking in a great location will always have a place in the industry.
While there are flashes of Bondi & Bourke brilliance here, Brontë is more than just an elevated replica of its sibling or a high-end Australian “barbie” steakhouse
Brontë is, in essence, a steakhouse, but it also showcases what seems like Watson’s understanding of Australian cuisine while taking a hands-on approach in exploring and bringing out the best in each product.
This is vividly felt, seen, and tasted on the nine steak offerings “sourced from the finest pastoral estates of New South Wales, Queensland, and select North American ranches,” such as the robust and rich Carrara bone-in côte de bœuf, the award-winning A4 Grade Sher Family ribeye, and a buttery pair of Red Phoenix MB5 and MB9 wagyu sourced from grain-fed cattle, among others.
Non-steak lovers will also find themselves well catered to, as there is a smorgasbord of high-quality flavors that reflect Watson’s considerable prowess beyond steaks.
The shepherd’s pie is a little revelation for non-lamb lovers; savory and rich in all the right ways, with juicy and tender braised lamb waiting for consumption underneath the buttery potato gratin. Other heavy hitters lean into seafood: thrilling oysters with sabayon, comforting Chilean mussels and Tasmanian salmon, and king crab cakes sitting on sweet, smoky, and spicy flavors kick things up.
You can also opt for the grand seafood plateau for an excellent table showstopper or yield to meaty grandeurs such as the beautifully cooked duck confit and classic Australian lamb chops.
The menu appears relatively comprehensive, but this variety also gives Brontë leverage among a customer base that has higher expectations
The menu appears relatively comprehensive, but this variety also gives Brontë leverage among a customer base that has higher expectations partly because it is competing with equally great restaurants surrounding it.
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Levanto’s fourth floor, which is transforming into a “destination of design and dining,” also houses private dining concept Mireia, seafood steakhouse Taglish, wine boutique Tasting Room, Japanese restaurant Hakka, and chef Frances Tarriga’s Tahanan right next door.
A puzzling point of contention however is the lack of a private restroom; to an extent, Brontë’s customers are also competing for the communal restroom outside, which can impact the overall experience and chances of repeat visits.
But amid this little snag, Brontë is marked by strong Australian-driven ingredient choices, a structured approach to steakhouse dining, and variations on classics. Overall, Brontë is built to be likeable, just like Watson himself—whether officiating in the kitchen or socializing with guests with his natural Australian charisma.
