MATAMIS na bao has come a long way since the days of my childhood. When I was growing up, it was usually available only in the palengke or wet markets, and it would be a rough, sticky and overly sweet spread that sometimes caused toothache.

Nowadays matamis na bao has reached a new level. No longer confined to the neighborhood palengke, it’s sold in upscale supermarkets and in boutiques specializing in Filipiniana.

Why, it has even acquired an English translation—coconut jam, or coco jam, to use a hipper term. What’s more, coconut jams are now packaged in more stylish bottles, with airtight covers and the proper labeling (some even include the nutritional contents). And unlike the rustic delicacy of old, the new-style sweet is smooth, easily spreadable and has just the right amount of sweetness.

It’s also heartening to note that this more modern version is still made in the provinces, especially where coconuts grow abundantly.

With all these upgrades, matamis na bao likewise deserves contemporary ways of usage. Instead of just spreading it on pan de sal (as we used to do), you can use it as a filling for wonton wrappers, as in the recipe below. It makes a great snack or dessert, and can be prepared in a jiffy. Serve it during your family get-togethers this Christmas season. Your balikbayan guests, nostalgic for the sweets of yesteryears, will be pleasantly surprised.

Coconut jam ‘wontons’

40-50 pieces wonton wrappers

1-1 ½ cup coconut jam (matamis na bao)

¼ c water

2 c cooking oil

To garnish:

Desiccated coconuts or sweetened coconut flakes (optional)

Brush the edges of the wonton wrappers with water. Spread about one teaspoon coconut jam on each wrapper, then fold the wrappers to enclose the coco jam filling. Press the edges to seal. If desired, make decorative edges on the wrappers using the tines of a fork.

Heat the cooking oil to medium then bring the heat down to low. Fry the wrappers until the edges turn golden brown. Remove from the oil and transfer to paper towels or absorbent paper. Let cool slightly then arrange on a serving platter.

If desired, sprinkle with desiccated coconut or sweetened coconut flakes before serving. Makes about 20 servings.

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Cook’s tips

Use coconut jam that’s smooth since it spreads more easily. Among the best ones are those made in Quezon province.

Do not overfill the wonton wrappers so the filling doesn’t spill out during the frying process.

You can also use molo wrappers, available in supermarkets.